Vassar College Digital Library

Haight, Helen I. Diary, ca. 1928

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This volume is a travel journal post-dating Haight's time at Vassar.

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vassar:2761,Box 124
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Helen Ines Haight
cumae + th. Phlegraean Fields
by. G Consoli Fiego
Alma Reed
Am & Brit Club Naples


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g. Helen I. Haight, '98
through President's Office, 12 June 1964


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Sailed July 2 - at 1 AM.
Large room for 3 at price of 4 (Thanks to Mr. ...!) May & "Pop: - Bess P. Katherine & "Aunt Kate" down to see us off. Many packages. fruit candy etc etc for Grace mostly. Bess P. for all 3 Emily & sisters a lovely basket of fruit for their two "Aunties"
Uneventful life - quiet well behaved people. Excellent service. Room 154F 2nd Cabin 145 per + 5 tax for Eng. Last night out ran into a square rigged clipper, which struck right by our port hole. a life boat picked up the crew. We "stood by" 2 hrs 12-2 AM. a wonder


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ful sight to see the square rigged schooner in the "beam" of the boats flash light.
Ida met us at the station 7 PM & we hurried to Mrs Wms. Then took 8.45 train to Rugby. Dear Mother Grace was there to greet us in the lovely new house
- Outstanding things
Mother Grace's Italian furniture
Ida's bedroom blue painted
Spinet dressing table
xx Dining Room hooked rug made by E... & Raymond
In the afternoon we went to see the beautiful spot where Father John lies.


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Monday we got home at 11.30 and went to Am Ex & Libertys then to Helen Pence ... for tea in aft. a very charming apt. near Kensington Museum. Miss McCurdy & her cousin Mr. Thompson were there
Tuesday we went to British Museum to see the Parthenon Marbles & Wed the treasures from Ur. Wed Ida & Mother Grace came in for Lunch which we had at Tiullers then we went to a Matinee "The Letter" a very thrilling play wonderfully acted by Gladys Cooper.
Sat Ida was in again Friday we took Dorothea & her mother to dinner at the Criterion & then


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she took us to the Theater to see Ann 10020 a light amusing farce with a delightful "office B..." in it.
In the afternoon we had had tea with the McCurdy's & seen their collection of Greek Vases. and their beautiful Apartments.
Sat Ida & we had lunch at the Rendevous & we went to see Galsworthy's - "Windows" The most interesting one of the 3 plays.
Thursday afternoon we went to ... St. Bartholemews.
Entered through an arch under a quaint timpered house that was revealed by a German bomb during the war 1914


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This is the oldest church in London (next to Chapel in ... .
In N. Ambulation tomb J & M Whiting 1680-t)
"Shee first deceased, Hee for a little tryd to live without her, likd it not & dyd"
Hogarth was baptised here.
Then to St. Pauls, which was unsatisfying owing to repairs to dome but the crypt with its tombs was wonderful wellington. Nelson, the most imposing, but much more appealing is the one to Sir Christopher Wren - [quote in Latin]
A lovely little chapel at left of the W door contains an effigy of Kitchener.
Sargents was designed by himself in Boston


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Sunday - Walked with sister in morning past Temple - Old Curiosity Shop etc. In afternnon all 3 went to St. Clement Dane's saw 2 darling babies cristened
went for walk tried to find Roman bath. Bad little children ... in bed.
Sat in Victoria Gardens listened to band. Saw E... from Pickadilly. "Cleopatra's Needle".
National Gallery.
158 Wonderful Italian pictures.
Predella Fra Angelica


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Thurs left 10 AM for Burges
Dover 11. Burges about 6
... 4:30
Stayed across from R R Station
Hotel de Londres.
A most picturesque quaint old town with large piazza & beautiful bell tower. In the evening we dined at Hotel de Panier & d'Or in the square & listened to the band. Bought some linen & lace of Hotel Keepers daughter Prices terribly cheap.


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Sunday July 23. Sight seeing bus.
Change of guard at Buckingham Palace. Irish wear green plume in big black fur hat. Scotch no plume Welsh green & white
Then to East side. Saw thieves market in & near Petticoat Lane where stolen Dogs &Bicycles are sold. Rode all around through "Hound ditch" & shore ditch & jewry: very interesting 5/ United ... Co Southampton Row


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July 24
Monday. London museum in morning.
Very interesting collection of models of old London. Including the fire of 1666. The Roman Galley found in Thames.
Old costumes, jewelry Royal dresses etc Kings coronation robes & on the top floor , a childrens room. Queen Mary's doll house Queen Victoria's dolls. etc etc.
Lunched at Rumpelmayer near St. James Palace.


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Wed packed. lunched at Plane Tree
Dined at Frascati 7/6 wonderful place with beautiful music & much gaiety. fancy dancing.
Tue. Ida Mother Grace Aunt Connie came in did some shopping met Grace for lunch at Florence 53 Rupert St very delicious lunch for 5/ had tea with Mother Grace at Fullers
met Ida at Nat Portrait Gallery. wonderful pictures there. They all put one into a different world esp the modern ones. Watts Browning then earlier ones of Robert & Eliz Barrett - Thackery a bust 9 yrs old near his mature picture


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Huxley Carlyle - Duke of Wellington Romneys, Sir Joshua Reynolds Copleys. Stuart's Washington Children of Chas I by Van Dyk Ouida - Angelica Kaufman

Thurs left Victoria Sta at 10 had a charming little boy "Peter" for a companion put onboard by a Grandfather Prof of Phonetics at London Uni. Also an Austrian English woman interested in Astrology.

Calm crossing beautiful afternoon came on to Burges with an Anglican - Catholic very well dressed young man who did settlement work in E


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London & told us very interesting things about it. Every Aug a lot of them carry on a medical mission in Kent among the Hop pickers who are largely from East London - families go down to give their children fresh air. Mothers fathers & children pick - 6 bu for a shilling they cant possibly all together pick more than 36 bu a day.

The Church workers hold clinic from 9-10 & 5-6 between times they go out among the pickers & where they see an undernourished mother with little children they help them pick.

Staying at Hotel very near station. The town square Halle & Bell Tower is beautiful
old dark grey stone beautifully carved buildings with red roofs & chimes ringing every 15 min.


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utes. We sat & listened to a band concert. Friday morning we went to a wonderful exhibition of minietures - illuminated Missiles[sic] in the Town Hall. Some were so humorous - a monk playing Violin with rake as bow
two of them playing hockey with their crooked sticks. All sort of animals particularly monkeys disguising themselves underneath red cowls & capes
Then the sublimely beautiful annunciations & pictures of life of Mary Magdaline
A statue of Jan Van Eyck in square by flower market quaint [*small drawing] facades to houses
lovely tints of brick old tile roofs.

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The last morning in Burges was market. Bought colored glasses - went to ... sat in sun with them got up dropped them & broke them. Ha! ha!
The trip to Venice was full of fun & interest. I travelled 2nd class & Grace 1st in Sleeper
Shared compartment with Swiss youth from Brussels.
Very comfortable night. Had to show passports on border of Duchy of Luxemborg & Switzerland. At 6.30 had to get out and show baggage at Basle Border of Switzerland. Rode to Lugano with nice Irish woman from near New Castle named Fleming She taught Geography


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Wonderful scenery all day Sunday going from Lucerne to Logano. Reached Venice at 20 to 9 & went to Luna
Had noisy room so next day changed to Casa Adria on Rio Schiavoni funny little house near Royal D... . Got 2 back rooms for 44 [pounds] a day.
Next morning ran into B R very mad had come the night before & couldnt find us. In afternoon went to Island of San Lazzaro - used to be a place for infectious diseases Now a center of Armenian Culture bought Armenian printing press there. Very interesting a Monk named Daniel showed us about. Saw the room where Byron learned Armenian.


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In evening went for a Gondola ride through the Guidecca

Next day went to Lido & swam
In evening B took us to Antica Martino a lovely outside restaurant. Inside were most interesting: fresco ... after dinner we walked miles through the back ways of Venice a most wonderful sight
Thur. went to Lido again for Lunch & bath, In aft to Duomo & S. Maria For ... to see Palma Vecchio's Santa Barbara
In evening dined at San Bella Venezia & then to train with B. He miss it & we went to ... till he left.
Fri. Went to Torcello Murano & Burana in aft with cook tours 30 [pounds] Nice cool trip very hot every day


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in Venice!!!
Sat. In morning went to S. Zaccharias saw the beautiful Madonna with Sts & angel playing guitar by G. Bellini
Colleone & Sts Giovani ed Paulo to see tombs of Doges
Sat eve there was a Festivale in the Grande Canal we invited an Italian Lady at Pensione to go with us She was charming & had lost her husband 3 mos ago Lives in Ravenna.


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Sunday. Morning Accademia
High lights
Armenian Island 1717. Mekhitar of Sebaste founded it.


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aft Chioggia by boat, studied Italian made acquaintance Sig. Gra Matta Comalschi
n.6059 - &. c... whiskers - hand waving - went wading lost boat had to take the Espresso. Grace & he talked French all way home.
Mon- packed for Cortina went even went for wonderful Gondola ride. Back corners M Tola house - S. Miracoli lovely gardens, dancing shadows of leaves. Bridge with young men singing - man in evening suit stands up in Gondola gives Fasciste salute & sings a verse ... . Then all run to next bridge & greet him again.


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Giobatta in Sq. walking out other man. Meets us when we leave & walks home with us.
Went to Tocello, Murano & Burano 3 of one afternoon bought tickets from Cook.
Joined Italian Touring Club (15 [lira?]


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Gibraltar comes to dock & wave goodbye.
Cortina Motor boat 8-to Mest... took auto fare 130l (Round trip 200) arrived a little after 1 had lunch hunted hotel finally got in Regina new one Room on top floor with servants - Beautiful view nice people "Contessa & Marchesa."
Took many wonderful walks. next morning sat under tree & wrote letters - out day to Larch grove - One day in lovely Park - everywhere rushing mt. streams pink crocuses - blue bells yellow-flowers-enormous purple self heal - an occasional gentian.
One day walked to Tre Crois & had tea. another up behind ... to Lago Sals...


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all the way through larch woods - marvellous view at Lake.
another to Lago Ghedina very small but lovely walk past chapel & tower west of Hotel.
another day took Funicula to Belvedere & spent day wonderful view - most touching Military cemetary in larch grove Monument made of Helmets trench shovels hand grenades etc mounted on ... rough stones ... mounted by a large shell.
Little chapel had almost lifesize picture of soldier standing in snow beside


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the body of his fallen comrade with cold dolomite peaks rising in distance.
Family came to put flowers on an officers grave.
Newrly every evening we went to Concordia to hear music. Ben Franklin minto, secco!
Sunday took marvellous gita to Lago Alleghe with Marchesa & Roman Surgeon - wife. One Passo di Falzorego. the most magnificent scenery I ever saw
Many very blue gentians Bought some Edelweis. Saw little S. Lucia. Colfana was where
the Surgeon was stationed during the war. Bought wonderful heavy brogues for tramping (130 lire)


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name of Bootmaker -

In evenings talked Italian to the Romans - Marchesa
one evening to Lucarellis of Naples - lovely picture of baby - (Papa kisses it)
met ... American ... from Calif. daughter married French count - Little Arline's
perfect manners. Grandson Nanno's father a count Sabia - Palazzo Sabia with
Tiepolo frescoes of Antony & Cleopatra.
Bird on Grace's brow
My shoes. People from Charleston


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45 l [lire]

Aug 2
Tues - Venezia Hotel Regina - arrived at 3 left Port 8.15 AM

High Spots;
Pillar in ducal Palace on Piazetta - Romeo & Juliet Scenes gita from Molo.
Went to Academia Wed.
Saw Deposition of Titian
Bellinis, Carpaccios & Tintorettos & Tiepolos again

Thurs - went to
Scuolo di San Rocco
Chiesa " " "
in afternoon St. Giovanis ... Schia... for Carpaccios

Fri. Museo Cirico very interesting
Ruskin calls picture of 2 Courtesans the best there
Majolica from Wood Cuts in Edition of Ovid.
Little wooden carving of J. Caesar:
Marvellous Ebony & Walnut


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dining room set carved with Nigger's-men holding up arms of chairs little Nigger boys on backs of arms - in various charming attitudes, eating grapes playing bagpipes asleep, etc - ragged suits showed bare knees (ebony) sticking through.

Sat - Went up in Campanile wonderful & surprising view - no canals visible only roofs, roofs & the lovely campaniles & islands in Lagoon.

In aft went to ... for lunch and walked along shore where Byron used to ride horseback.
4 charming Italian Lads walked with us. -all for


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4-17 I should say
My comrade had studied English in school. Was now a Book keeper but studied at home & took the Exams. Had read Longfellow, Defoe Jack London & knew all about Hollywood & our movie stars. , walked to Malamocro originally Ducal seat until 1st Century when honor passed to Venice.

Sunday Aug 28.

Spent morning reading Lucas a wander in Florence & writing an outline of what I had seen. Lunched at Buonvecchiata. Lobster & tomato salad. Then to Rialto to see Gobbo di Rialto. statue of a dwarf, bearing a stone tablet on his


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S. Gio. Elemosenaris closed for repairs?

head from which the laws were read. Saw S. Giacomello di Rialto oldest church in Venice
S. Madonna dei Miraculi lovely Byzantine Romanesque church. Barell vaulted nave no aisles choir raised 14 steps lovely carved lecterns & balustra with amoretti ... that suggested Mina da Fiesole.

The unfinished sculpture ... Last supper on passage to Sacristy. Beautiful painted ceiling - near doors a Palma Vecchio Madonna that stood on a cloud & crescent moon & St. Ciara by Bellini. whole interior trimmed with various colored marble,


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like San Marco.


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Aug 29 - Padua.
Trip by boat 1/2 hr to Fusina 1 1/2 hr to Padua. Round trip 9 L.
Chapel of Arena Best light morning
Giotto frescos of life of Virgin
" " Christ

Beautiful pastel shades in Coln - vivid cobalt blue ceiling & skies.

Best are Adoration of Magi
Presentation in Temple
Flight into Egypt
xx Deposition

St. Antonio -
Large church all old frescos Gone from nave because church was used as hospital during Plague & whitewashed just suggestion of old ones ... visible.

Tombs of Gatamelata cute little cat on carving over tomb of Father


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[small drawing of cat] and in painting of heraldry above [another small drawing of cat)
Beautiful base of ... tomb of Admiral Contarini
flat reliefs of old Venetian ships
Some frescoes in chaple[sic] on right
Aisle Transept by Attichiero
Life of St. James - behind Altar Crucifixion.

x Left transept tomb of Saint all around walls lovely reliefs of life of St. Anthony.
Many people were holding hands or head dresses or bundles against the back of tomb.
...-bronze doors & figures by Donatello. On back of altar beautiful terracotta relief of deposition by D. on front 12 little Amoretti musicians Wonderful carved bronze candelsticks[sic] largest in world


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Venice. Had tea with Mrs Meade, Contessa Lalia. Countes[sic] de Maliniese sig. Minaldi e Nano. at Palazzo Lalia Dofin Very interesting. Lower floors rented to German artist Beautiful garden.
Stairs hung with lovely dull grey brocades,
Large salone with interesting old furniture & pictures & books. Beautiful views from balconies bedroom very interesting large low bed. Charming people.
Went to Alberone Lido by boat had a bath, costume & all for 2 Lire same back by Autobus to Lido.


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Revisited San Zaccharias Pictures.
x Bellini Madonna 4 Sts & Angel Musicians
Best light at early morning beautiful picture

Nuns Chapel
Titian Mater Dolorosa
Palma Giovann
" Vecchio
Lovely guilded[sic] choir ....
Madonna by Vivarini
Tintoretto - Nativity of John
the baptist over the door.

In old church we saw part of a mosaic pavement & the chairs the Doges used to sit in when they came there once a year.


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churches visited.

St. Anastasia - Gothic unfinished brick facade portal of marble.
Interior 12 large columns.
2 baptismal fonts upheld by hunch back dwarfs.
Terra cotta reliefs of life christ - beautiful kneeling figure of donor - (life size)

Cathedral Romanesque
Reliefs on portal? paladins of Charlemagne
Columns & Griffins
Inside tomb of St. Agatha

x Assumption by Titian
Golden light in Sky.
much same color as one in F.... Madonna
has hands folded.

Interesting cloisters - early christian mosaic.


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Benedictine - Lovely cloister
double columns partly 2 storied __ __
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St. Zeno Magguire
finest Romanesque building in N. Italy
flat roofed basilica - pillars & columns.
Very high altar broad plain steps.

x Ma..tegna. Madonna ...
surrounded by angelic musicians & saints. (Best light early morning)
In crypt early columns & later columns & pillars much stone from
amphitheater some beautifully carved.

San Fermo Romanesque.
Benedictine - fine roof of larch wood.


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S. Maria in Organo
lombard period rebuild by Benedictines
Frescoes by Morone - old testament

x Choir Stall's intarsia views of Town above many charming animals
Sacristy also by Fra Giovanni -
Morone frescoes half length portraits of Monks & saints.

In afternoon Amphitheater
(M..) Roman theater
Giardino Giusti:
marvellous cypress trees
500 yrs old.
Piazza Erbis
Juliet's House
Romeo's house stable
The tomb - noticed hole in end & side supposed to


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be for Juliet to breathe out of

Milan - Sunday afternoon
left at 4.25 - arrived at 6.58

Monday morning Cathedral
Found for first time that
... was painted not cut out of stone!
Such a disappointment!!

In afternoon went to
S. Maria delle Grazie to see
Leonardo's last Supper.
Sat a long time looking at it.


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Shesa Arrived at 11.30. EH at 12.15 - nice little Hotel in a charming Garden

In afternoon took a barca to Isole dei Pescatore for tea. a quaint little island of fisher folk that ends in a green point with double row of plane trees
Had tea at Verbano.

Next day it rained so we only went out for tea

Thurs in morning to Isola Bella - Castle of Borromeo family.
Flemish tapestries of 17th cent a series of portraits of all sorts of animals very curious. . Lovely pictures mostly copies.


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Beautiful garden on 10 terraces containing all sorts of trees & plants from all parts of the tropical world. Camphor tree, tea, coffee, eucalyptus - sensitive plant etc etc.

Then rowed on to Bavena.

In afternoon took a Cook trip to Orta.

Rowed over to Island of St. Julien where there was a most interesting monastery came from Greece in 379 - old frescoes by Ferzari, School of Giotto

lovely rose, red ...

12th century pulpit of black marble carved with very primitive representions of 4 evangelists.

In sacristy a Magdalen by Guido Reni - wonderful old vestment

In crypt the body of the Saint lies.


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See 2 pages ahead please.

Sept 9 Left 8.40 by boat Sat morn.
a beautiful day. Went up the Lake to Luino
arrived 10.30 took Electric tram to Ponte Fresa ar. 11.
on to Lugarno ar 1. had lunch on boat 18 L.
stayed in Locarno[sic] till 2.15
Tried to see a Luini Madonna in old church
but it was closed between 12 & 2.
no stores would take my Italian money
so we didn't spend any.
went down Lake to Porlezza 4.97 then took train
to Menaggro ar 5.07 (?)
to Bellagio at 5.24.
the whole day was fascinating. The three lakes
were all


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very different.

Locarno so green The trip between Locarno & Como was along a deep gorge -(best view on left side)- we saw another tiny Lake on the way. Fortunately we had a perfect day.

We stayed at Hotel Florence with a beautiful terrass[sic] on lake where we have breakfast - Our rooms are in the Villa - up the hill across a dear little garden from the main hotel - Grace & I have a big double room with 3 windows - one on the front so we get a small view of the lake around the corner of the hotel. Below the windows is a trelliss[sic] of Jacquimol[?] Roses in bloom


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Stresa continued

1 hr trip each way

Sept 9 - In afternoon we went up on rack & pinion road to Mortarone - the track is very steep in places - once the power went off & we began to roll back it caught then lessened & we rolled some more but caught.
On the way up we saw the biggest bluest gentians ever seen!
The view from the top was superb - 6 lakes visible tho' the air was not clear. & such rows & rows of mountains to the west! We climbed to the top where there is a cross. Well worth the climb. Had tea at hotel. We were sorry we hadn't come in


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the morning & spent the day!

Sunday In the morning EH & I ate breakfast out on terrass wrote letters. Then sauntered up to Church as there was a festa The little church tower was all hung with Japanese lanterns. An old lady took us round to the sacristy to see the gifts to the madonna which had been brought in by the parish people.
Baskets full of bottles of wine wreathed with garlands. Great cakes with very fancy icings with just a little bunch of flowers in the middle & even a live wooly lamb? These were to be auctioned off


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in the piazza after the procession.
Then we went down to the Villa again & at 2.30 the processeion of the Nativity of the Virgin came down the hill. Priests & parishioners all led by a band with long straight feathers in their hats. men in coarse vestments of white with scarlet capes & white hoods children & women with lovely white net veils - all carrying candles - Banners then finally the little Virgin & Babe in their Baldichino. & behind 3 priest in wonderful embroidered vestments


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all so common & homely but lighted with a reverence that raised it above the ordinary level. After they left us a terrific shower came up & they must have all gotten soaked.

Monday. Sept 12.
Morning - walked up to Villa Serbelloni the sight[sic] of one of Pliny's villas a beautiful walk thro' pine woods out to end of point where you looked over the Lucca arm of the lake ... this one.
At one point there is a tunnel where one can see both the Villa Carlotta on one side of the Lake & Arvenna on the other


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In the afternoon walked down the Lake & came back by an upper road & stopped in to see the
x Villa Guilio - wonderful gardens. climbed 280 steps to get a view of the whole peninsula. This villa is now owned by Leon Goldsmith.

Tues Sept 19. Hired a barca 70 l for day & barcaiolo to row us to Villa Carlotta. Took Chestini & went 1st to Villa - saw
Canovas Cupid & Psyche
Torwalsen Frieze of Triumph of Alex the Great - ordered by Napoleon for Rome - but he was defeated before it was finished But Thorwalsen[sic] was paid to finish it by
The Gardens were beautiful Especially Australian Tree Ferns


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Then down Lake to Island of Comacina beautiful spot little old church on it - Where we ate lunch. After Lunch went back to x villa Arconati very lovely - a favorite of Miss Hanks. On a point with 2 entrances to lake & lovely garden - owned now by a Mrs Gen Ames of Boston Mass Then across Lake to a small Grotto. Grayish Green much like blue grotto.
After that bought shawls EH gave me a beautiful Peacock one for my birthday. - on street that goes up hill from end of stores by Hotel Brattagne) - 100 L.


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Thurs. Sept 15. Left Bellagio at 9.24. reached Como 11.14.
visited Cathedral saw beautiful Luinis.
"wonderful Flemish & Italian tapestries only hung. on festa days"

Left Como at 12.14 reached Milan at 1.30 ate lunch from Ostinis brought from Hotel -

Registered at Hotel then went to Museo Ambrosiano - to se Rafael's Cartoon for School of Athens in Vatican - Leonardo
head for that of Plato

Portrait of B. Diste (?) L. da Vinci
The Musician
Botticelli Madonna & Angels
" & Child
Luini S. John & Lamb.
Sacred Family
Baroccio Birch Christ


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Then to Biera bit as it c;pased at 4 we only had 1/2 hr.
High Lights -
Madonna in bower of Roses - Luini

Rafael - Eposalizio -
Frescoes by Luini

Veronese - Christ at House of Simon the Pharisee
Finding the body of St Mark
Titian - St. Gerome -

Mantegna Madonna in nimbus of Angels Heads.

Crivelli - Madonna of the Little candle

Bramante - Heraclitus & Democritus
(Laughing & crying Philosophers

Rembrant[sic] Portrait of his Sister

Thos. Lawrence. Portrait of Canova


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In evening Grace & I went to call on Signora Janna's daughter Mimi Cragnicolini - a charming youg married girl a Theosofist - very winning & enthusiastic lovely little apt full of interesting Eastern things & a ... pussy cat. We talked about her mother & Theosophy - & she gave us each a ricordo in the shape of a booklet mine was Art & Development from the Occultists pt of view

Nest morning to Poldi Pezzoli.
High lights.
Portrait of Bianca?
Guardi-Small dark picture
-The lagoon in Venice
Tiepolo. several pictures & sketches
Tapestry Queen of sheba wonderful fabric of costumes


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Bronze bust of Ulpiano Volpi by Bernini

Albertinelli Small altarpiece Madonna - on inside of ... St Catherine & S. Barbara on outside
Annunciation - Death's head on back.

Morone - Samson & Delilah -
S-dras head on Cap of D. boy cutting hair
1 Signed Carpaccio
Cerna - Bacchus & Ariadne
Mantegni Madonna
Andrea Solario. Ecce Homo


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Sat Sept 17 Left Milan 6.50 AM reached Firenze 1.30.
came to Pensione - then went shopping - had tea at Donys

Sunday Sept 18 -
Uffizzi in morning-
Italian Paintings
Cimabue Madonna & Child
Botticelli room
Cosimo Medici by P...
Portraits of Medicis by Bronzino.
Leonardo's adoration of Magi (unfinished)

In aft called on Signora Roselli


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Monday. S. Maria Novella
Frescoes by Masaccio Trinity
Over door crucifix in style of Giotto.

Capella Dei Bardi. by Aretino
" " Strozzi Tomb by Ben.
da Maiano Frescoes by Filippino Lippi.

Choir . Ghirlandaio frescoes (his greatest work) Annunciation scenes from life of Mary etc.
Right wall life of J. the Baptist

Capella Gondi
Crucifix of Brunelleschi - which started rivalry with Donatello
Left Transept. Capella Dei Strozzi
Frescoes by Arcagna
Paradise, Hell. Judgment.
Dante & Petrarch

Capella Dei Spagnuoli. frescoes of Giotto's school.

Cloisters Verde - Frescoes by Ucelli (Perspecive of God)
" - Old - 2 small frescoes by Giotto.


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Sept 22
Mes A festa nationale to commemorate the taking of Rome in '78.
Went to Ognisanti. Saw frescoes by Ghirlandaio
portraits of Vespucian family
St Aug. by Botticelli
S Jerome " Ghirlandaio.

S. Maria del Carmine
for Masaccio & Filippino Lippi
Masaccio Adam & Eve.
# Expulsion from Eden
Miracles of S. Peter

Corsini Chapel
Sacristy - old wooden ceiling & Gothic windows
Cloister Frescoes school of Giotto
Damaged ... by Masaccio

San Spirito.
Madona by Filippino Lippi


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Afternoon shopped wento[sic] to S. Croce to see Chapels decorated by Gioto. Life of St. Frances[sic]. etc.


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Thurs Uffizi again in morning.
Saw Venetian School.
Titians, Tiepolos Veronese

In afternoon went to Boboli Gardens. Saw Michelangelo's Grotto (4 unfinished figures)
Sat in amphitheater & looked at wonderful view toward Fiesole.


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Fri In morning shopped
In afternoon to Fiesole to see Theater - temple much more excavated - Cathedral raised choir - lovely Mino de Fiesole - Had tea at English tea room
Before we went Piero Roselto called.


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Sat. In morning shopped.
In afternoon went into S. Croce again - This time again looking at chapel

Donatello's cricifixion

Nero war memorial.

Pieta in center. conventionalized reliefs on side
Conventional stained glass window with names of
Piane, Vittorio, Trentino etc
on. - Tombs of Bruni & ... Desiderio da Settignano opposite Gallileo. etc.


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Sun Cenocala di Castagna
... ... painting full of vitality with Judas on one side of table alone

Chiosio del Scalzo
Andrea del Sarto |Mono...
Franciabigia |

frescoes of life of John Baptist & Life of Mary

San Marco
Beautiful tree in cloister
wonderful pictures.
Madonna of the Star stolen but gotten back again
The wonderful blue of the background of pictures strikes the eye!

Cenacola of Ghirlandaio
very like the one of Castagna - a little cat at Judas feet. Blue embroidered ends of


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table cloth -
The one at Ogni Santi very like it - Critics think Leonardo must have seen this before he left Florence.

Peruginis crucifixion
Beautiful in simplicity of composition & expressions on the faces.

Spent afternoon at home writing letters.


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Sept 26
Mon - San Trinita to see the Tiburtine Sybl[sic] announcing to Augustus the birth of Christ Ghirlandaio frescoes.

San Salis - Took Corozza (not fun) to see the great Cenacola di Andrea del Sarto. One of the most beautiful pictures in Florence in lovely color & beauty of expression. "The only one worthy to be compared with Leonardo's."


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Tues. Saw EH off on 9.40 to Rome - then went in S. Maria Novella again to see Ghirlandaio frescoes
Then to San Lorenzo to see Medici tombs & Donatello pulpits
Saw fragments that had been stolen
In afternoon I went to Signora Roselli's & took her picture. Then met Grace in Duomo & went to Donys for tea.


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10 L

Wed. Went to Pitti in afternoon- "Bad guard"
High Lights
Many Andrea del Sartos -
my John the Baptist
Rafael Gran duca
Madonna della Sedio
Many wonderful portraits:
Titians - Portrait of a yound man - Papa Giulio


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Sept 29

Thursday. Santa Croce. Pozzi Chapel & Cloisters.
Lovely Donatello & Desiderio de Lettignao
frieze of Cupids heads
Dello Robia spandrels of 4 evangelists figures of Apostles-

Della Robia
Giambologna Mercury


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Sept 30
Fri - Riccardi Chapel for Benozzi Gonzoli frescoes.
Afternoon tea with Signora Roselli at Arte della Lana
Then took her home in a carozza.

Oct 1
Sat. Up on Prazzole di Michael Angelo in aft Then to Pias for final fittings or rather collecting of dresses.
Mine were both terrible & had to be left.

Oct 2
Sun in morning to S S Innunziati to hear special music
large choir & full orchestra. We had seats which a lady in
S. Croce gave Grace. Took Dorothy Hewitt
The music was magnificent


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and the whole mass quite spectacular with a Cardinal to be dressed & undressed followed by many gorgeously attired priests.
In the afternoon we went up to Fiesole and first visited the Convent of S. Giovanni then had tea with the Piero Rosellis
Carmela came to the door & said "I am Carmela. I love your sister." Little Alberto is beautiful & precocious. Their apt is so charming - with a Magnificent view of Florence
A dear little garden with a fig tree in the center, and such charming people. A Mr. Coventry an


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Englishman who is on the Daily Mail was there with the cutest little 4 yrs old boy I ever saw.

Mon. Packed went to Pia's twice and did very little else.

Tues. Oct. 4. Left Florence at 1.40 reached Rome 7.05

Wed - Oct 5- Unpacked in morning in aft drove on Pincio out past the Woodruffs new place.
had tea in the Park.

Thurs Oct 6. Ostia by elec tram - Lost hat!


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Fri Oct 6 In afternoon went up to Academy to here[sic] Prof Bartoc cini lecture on the K
... at Leptis Magna. Could understant most of the lecture. He had beautiful pictures of


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Sun Oct 8 In morning to new Mussolini museo in Capitoline - Saw same attractive guard that I always have seen. He's been promoted now. His name is Sefanoro.
The museo is most interesting - on site of German embassy - lovely. garden m

In aft tea at Castello dei Caesari with Mrs Van Buren, Mother Grace & Ida as guests. A marvellous sunset. Then saw the moon rise behind colisseum on way home.


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Mon S. Maria Sofia Minerva
Saw frescoes by Filippino Lippi (very bad light

Tues Oct 11. Ostia Scais in morn.
11. AM from Porto San Paolo
1/2 hr by elec. train
Found gold fountain pen
" lovely green glass handle of vase
Kitten - Mother Superior from Syracuse & other Italian girl
Pavements in black & white mosaic - one a fish shop.


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house of Diana so called from little bas relief of Diana on wall.
Mithraic room locked up because people tried to pick out pieces of mosaid. beautiful Victory Pantheon or round building
Statues of Roma (?)

At 2.30 Mother Grace & Mrs Robinson joined us & we went on for tea at Ostia Marina.


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Wed In the morning we went to the Rag Market on the Campo del Fiore
I bought a lovely mosaic on green malachite - the Pantheon.
In the afternoon we went to the Villa Medici on the Pinci. It is now the French Academy.
The garden is beautiful The back of the Villa is covered with bits of reliefs - some supposed to be copies or portions of the Ars Pacis.


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Thurs In the morning had an Italian lesson.
In the afternoon went to tea with Mrs Van Buren
met some people from the British Academy.
She had a beautiful apartment & is so charming

Friday. spent the day with Sister at Frascati at the Woodruffs.

They have a villino in the grounds of the Villa Aldohand... and
their garden looks out on the great grove of Ilix trees & olives with Rome
in the distance. The lunch was delicious


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After lunch we went for a long drive to Rocco di Papa - Albano, Giotto Ferrata etc.
at G. F. we visited an old church or monastery where there were interesting Frescos by Domenichino - one representing S. healing a boy who had fits. The boy was wonderfully realistic. There was a museo with many fragments from a villa of Cicero near by.


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Sat. In aft, rode out Appian Way on the new bus as far as Tomb of Cecilia Metella. Had tea at Litonas. Counted 48 cats in Foro Traiano.
Visited church of San Sebastiano where Christ is supposed to have met Paul fleeing from Rome where he stopped when Paul said "Domine, quo vadis his foot prints were left in the stone. Christ replied "to Rome to be crucified again. So Paul returned.


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Sunday Oct 16 Musea Augusto in morning. S. Ambrosia convent. a new museum where a collection has been made of casts & photographs of things from all the Provinces - wonderfully interesting. On ground floor a boat with wolfs head, containing wine casks & men rowing.


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Mon. S. Giovanni de Paolo to see the Christian House with frescoes under the church, where two brothers John & Paul suffered martyrdom. In the dining room a frieze of birds & vines One eating a lizard, one a mouse, one a bunch of grapes.
a man praying had on a flowing robe banded in dark red. a beautiful mosaic border around the door.


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Tues Oct 18 - Nothing of note.
Walked in Pincio in aft.
Had tea at Roseo.
Bought a hat for 15 L ... of Vio Torino & Nationale

Wed Oct 19. Ida Grace & I went to
Sta Pressede - old titular church of 5th cen. supposed built over house of Pressede, filia de Pudens Sorella di Pudentiana.
Rebuilt 9th cent by Paschal
Mosaics of apse & St. Zeno Chapel chief attractions
Square blue halo means the St was still living.
Mosaic art revived in 9th cent because of establishment of Holy Roman Empire & coronation of Charlemagne. 4 churches rebuilt. Sta Pressede, S. Maria Domenica, Sta Cecilia S. Marco.


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Brownings. "The Bishop chooses his tomb" is here.
A 13th cent tomb of Cardinal Anchera is very fine - bisantine mosaic border on front.
St. Pudentiana has a marvelously realistic mosaic in apse which was cut off in 16th century rebuilding.
Went down to house underneath - where St. Peter was supposed to have visited Pudens & his daughters.
Saw floor of house floor of 1st church (subterranean.)
small fresco in nave of 2nd church. Baptismal font that St. Peter is supposed to have used. In afternoon went to tea at Mr & Mrs Stevens at Academy. Villa Aurelia - wonderful view, beautiful house.


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Thurs. No sightseeing. Studied in morning walked with EH in afternoon. Grace sick in bed with stomach.

Fri. Morning S. Maria Maggiore saw Septine Chapel & Pope Pius 5 whose flesh is supposed to be miraculously preserved. A St. Gerome by Ribera. A fresco by Guido Reni. Borghese chapel has portrait by S. Mark but it was covered.
... mosaics on apse & triumphal arch

In afternoon went to Chiesa dei Quatri Coronati: a very quaint old church with 2. courts. The second made when the church was reduced in size so


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the old pillars of the nave are embedded in the side walls.
The cloisters were lovely - white cowled nuns were making silver filigre[sic] flowers in the lovely flowergarden.
On one side a small room had remnants of a Theotokos Madonna in a niche and a queer painted wooden box apparently once some kind of an organ with a picture of St. Cecelia on the back.
The cosmati pavement of church was beautiful.
The 4 crowned Saints were killed because they refused to make statues for pagans
In a sort of Chapter house were wonderful frescoes of the life of St. Constantine when he had leprosy & was cured by a vision of St. Peter & Paul who told him to go to


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San Silvestio...He bestowed the temporal power on Pope Silvestio. We saw the grating through which the cloistered nuns pass out the key & two "loud speakers" where they listen to the service from their gallery in the convent.
After that we drove around the Pasaggio Archaeologico & back of baths of Caracalla. Had tea at Rosatis & walked home.


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Sun Morning Capitol museo in afternoon tea at Bar Esquilino

Mon S. Paolo fuori Muri
Protestant Cemetery
Young man with flowers on Keats grave.


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Tues went with Adademy out. Appian Way Baths of Caracalla Columpania of Vigna Codini.
Jewish Catacombs
Church of S. Sebastiano
Founded by Constantine
statue of St. by Giorgetti
Original stone of Quo Vadis
under church Catacombs
& house of St. Peter & Paul
on wall near house are many
inscriptions appealing to P. & P to pray
for the soul of the dead which is
considered one of the strongest
proofs that they were really in Rome.


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Wed Lecture at Academy on Etruscan Art & Civilization
Thurs started on trip to tomb. Left at 8.30 for ...
38 miles out Porta Aurelia. Rode in car with Prof. Robinson,
Sig Mengarelli. 1 1/2 hr to ....
See notebook for tombs etc
Ate lunch in straw capanna
drank toast to Mengarelli
In afternoon went on to new ...
in deep ravine long street of tombs
Left for Civitavecchia
at 4.30 arrived at 6
Lovely hotel facing the
water - The Grande Hotel de
[several unfamiliar words]
still to be seen.
Walked about town before dinner.
Beautiful sunset


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Oct 28
Fri - Left at 8.30 for Tarquinia
took about 1 1/2 hrs along the sea.
Stayed at Albergo Gentili
plain & comfortable.
Ate at trattoria - bad food. wonderful museo
in old Palace
Old church Chiesa dell Castiello 11th cent
destroyed by French
Part of church part of
city wall.
In afternoon visited 14 tombs. Walked home
by starlight
Sat. a perfectly magnificent drive
from Tarquinia via Civetavecchia
to ... Stopped at Branciano to visit
Oldaschalchi Palace.
Orsini family built it.


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The drive was marvellous first by the sea then across the Mts where there really was quite a little Autumn coloring.
Passed several flocks of sheep one had a new born lamb in Donkeys saddlebag.
Castle marvellous situation above Lake crimson creeper on wall.
Old furniture still in place on first floor.
Old lamps - china
furniture & beautiful frescoes by Anton Romano very like Bennezo Gozzoli a ... with portraits of Piero Medici & others. This was where Isabella Medici was strangled


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and thrown down the Oubliette.
One room had many Etruscan finds.
The library was beautiful - one end
raised a little contained book cases
to ... full of leather bound beautiful
volumes - at the other end of the great
room there was a balcony overlooking the lake.
Mts came down to its very shores & were
reflected in its calm waters.
In afternoon we went on to... where EHH.
...H & Grace met us. We saw part of the
old wall & ... - Then on to the Tomba de
Compana an early fresco


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showing Ionian influence & saw the Bridge cut in rock to let water flow beneath.

Oct 30
Sunday. A great celebration for March on Rome & cessation of war.
Heard bands the first thing in the morning. Grace & I went out but did
not see much
Met Mr. Waldron & came home together.
In afternoon walked with EH & Ida & Grace down
the Campo dei Fiori to see Renaissance architecture.
Saw place of Pompey's theater.
Palazzo Cancelleria
" Spadi