Vassar College Digital Library
Tue, 11/01/2022 - 15:53
Edited Text
Helen Ines Haight
cumae + th. Phlegraean Fields
by. G Consoli Fiego
Alma Reed
Am & Brit Club Naples

g. Helen I. Haight, '98
through President's Office, 12 June 1964

Sailed July 2 - at 1 AM.
Large room for 3 at price of 4 (Thanks to Mr. ...!) May & "Pop: - Bess P. Katherine & "Aunt Kate" down to see us off.
Many packages. fruit candy etc etc for Grace mostly. Bess P. for all 3 Emily & sisters a lovely basket of fruit for their
two "Aunties"
Uneventful life - quiet well behaved people. Excellent service. Room 154F 2nd Cabin 145 per + 5 tax for Eng. Last
night out ran into a square rigged clipper, which struck right by our port hole. a life boat picked up the crew. We "stood
by" 2 hrs 12-2 AM. a wonder

ful sight to see the square rigged schooner in the "beam" of the boats flash light.
Ida met us at the station 7 PM & we hurried to Mrs Wms. Then took 8.45 train to Rugby. Dear Mother Grace was there
to greet us in the lovely new house

-Outstanding things
Mother Grace's Italian furniture
Ida's bedroom blue painted
Spinet dressing table
xx Dining Room hooked rug made by E... & Raymond
In the afternoon we went to see the beautiful spot where Father John lies.

Monday we got home at 11.30 and went to Am Ex & Libertys then to Helen Pence ... for tea in aft. a very charming apt.
near Kensington Museum. Miss McCurdy & her cousin Mr. Thompson were there
Tuesday we went to British Museum to see the Parthenon Marbles & Wed the treasures from Ur. Wed Ida & Mother
Grace came in for Lunch which we had at Tiullers then we went to a Matinee "The Letter" a very thrilling play
wonderfully acted by Gladys Cooper.
Sat Ida was in again Friday we took Dorothea & her mother to dinner at the Criterion & then

she took us to the Theater to see Ann 10020 a light amusing farce with a delightful "office B..." in it.
In the afternoon we had had tea with the McCurdy's & seen their collection of Greek Vases. and their beautiful
Sat Ida & we had lunch at the Rendevous & we went to see Galsworthy's - "Windows" The most interesting one of the 3
Thursday afternoon we went to ... St. Bartholemews.
Entered through an arch under a quaint timpered house that was revealed by a German bomb during the war 1914

This is the oldest church in London (next to Chapel in ... .
In N. Ambulation tomb J & M Whiting 1680-t)
"Shee first deceased, Hee for a little tryd to live without her, likd it not & dyd"
Hogarth was baptised here.
Then to St. Pauls, which was unsatisfying owing to repairs to dome but the crypt with its tombs was wonderful
wellington. Nelson, the most imposing, but much more appealing is the one to Sir Christopher Wren - [quote in Latin]
A lovely little chapel at left of the W door contains an effigy of Kitchener.
Sargents was designed by himself in Boston

Sunday - Walked with sister in morning past Temple - Old Curiosity Shop etc. In afternnon all 3 went to St. Clement
Dane's saw 2 darling babies cristened
went for walk tried to find Roman bath. Bad little children ... in bed.
Sat in Victoria Gardens listened to band. Saw E... from Pickadilly. "Cleopatra's Needle".
National Gallery.
158 Wonderful Italian pictures.
Predella Fra Angelica

Thurs left 10 AM for Burges
Dover 11. Burges about 6
... 4:30
Stayed across from R R Station
Hotel de Londres.
A most picturesque quaint old town with large piazza & beautiful bell tower. In the evening we dined at Hotel de Panier
& d'Or in the square & listened to the band. Bought some linen & lace of Hotel Keepers daughter Prices terribly cheap.

Sunday July 23. Sight seeing bus.
Change of guard at Buckingham Palace. Irish wear green plume in big black fur hat. Scotch no plume Welsh green &
Then to East side. Saw thieves market in & near Petticoat Lane where stolen Dogs &Bicycles are sold. Rode all around
through "Hound ditch" & shore ditch & jewry: very interesting 5/ United ... Co Southampton Row

July 24
Monday. London museum in morning.
Very interesting collection of models of old London. Including the fire of 1666. The Roman Galley found in Thames.
Old costumes, jewelry Royal dresses etc Kings coronation robes & on the top floor , a childrens room. Queen Mary's
doll house Queen Victoria's dolls. etc etc.
Lunched at Rumpelmayer near St. James Palace.

Wed packed. lunched at Plane Tree
Dined at Frascati 7/6 wonderful place with beautiful music & much gaiety. fancy dancing.
Tue. Ida Mother Grace Aunt Connie came in did some shopping met Grace for lunch at Florence 53 Rupert St very
delicious lunch for 5/ had tea with Mother Grace at Fullers
met Ida at Nat Portrait Gallery. wonderful pictures there. They all put one into a different world esp the modern ones.
Watts Browning then earlier ones of Robert & Eliz Barrett - Thackery a bust 9 yrs old near his mature picture

Huxley Carlyle - Duke of Wellington Romneys, Sir Joshua Reynolds Copleys. Stuart's Washington Children of Chas I
by Van Dyk Ouida - Angelica Kaufman

Thurs left Victoria Sta at 10 had a charming little boy "Peter" for a companion put onboard by a Grandfather Prof of
Phonetics at London Uni. Also an Austrian English woman interested in Astrology.

Calm crossing beautiful afternoon came on to Burges with an Anglican - Catholic very well dressed young man who did
settlement work in E

London & told us very interesting things about it. Every Aug a lot of them carry on a medical mission in Kent among
the Hop pickers who are largely from East London - families go down to give their children fresh air. Mothers fathers &
children pick - 6 bu for a shilling they cant possibly all together pick more than 36 bu a day.

The Church workers hold clinic from 9-10 & 5-6 between times they go out among the pickers & where they see an
undernourished mother with little children they help them pick.

Staying at Hotel very near station. The town square Halle & Bell Tower is beautiful
old dark grey stone beautifully carved buildings with red roofs & chimes ringing every 15 min.

utes. We sat & listened to a band concert. Friday morning we went to a wonderful exhibition of minietures - illuminated
Missiles[sic] in the Town Hall. Some were so humorous - a monk playing Violin with rake as bow
two of them playing hockey with their crooked sticks. All sort of animals particularly monkeys disguising themselves
underneath red cowls & capes
Then the sublimely beautiful annunciations & pictures of life of Mary Magdaline
A statue of Jan Van Eyck in square by flower market quaint [*small drawing] facades to houses
lovely tints of brick old tile roofs.

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The last morning in Burges was market. Bought colored glasses - went to ... sat in sun with them got up dropped them &
broke them. Ha! ha!
The trip to Venice was full of fun & interest. I travelled 2nd class & Grace 1st in Sleeper
Shared compartment with Swiss youth from Brussels.
Very comfortable night. Had to show passports on border of Duchy of Luxemborg & Switzerland. At 6.30 had to get out
and show baggage at Basle Border of Switzerland. Rode to Lugano with nice Irish woman from near New Castle named
Fleming She taught Geography

Wonderful scenery all day Sunday going from Lucerne to Logano. Reached Venice at 20 to 9 & went to Luna
Had noisy room so next day changed to Casa Adria on Rio Schiavoni funny little house near Royal D... . Got 2 back
rooms for 44 [pounds] a day.
Next morning ran into B R very mad had come the night before & couldnt find us. In afternoon went to Island of San
Lazzaro - used to be a place for infectious diseases Now a center of Armenian Culture bought Armenian printing press
there. Very interesting a Monk named Daniel showed us about. Saw the room where Byron learned Armenian.

In evening went for a Gondola ride through the Guidecca

Next day went to Lido & swam
In evening B took us to Antica Martino a lovely outside restaurant. Inside were most interesting: fresco ... after dinner
we walked miles through the back ways of Venice a most wonderful sight
Thur. went to Lido again for Lunch & bath, In aft to Duomo & S. Maria For ... to see Palma Vecchio's Santa Barbara
In evening dined at San Bella Venezia & then to train with B. He miss it & we went to ... till he left.
Fri. Went to Torcello Murano & Burana in aft with cook tours 30 [pounds] Nice cool trip very hot every day

in Venice!!!
Sat. In morning went to S. Zaccharias saw the beautiful Madonna with Sts & angel playing guitar by G. Bellini
Colleone & Sts Giovani ed Paulo to see tombs of Doges
Sat eve there was a Festivale in the Grande Canal we invited an Italian Lady at Pensione to go with us She was
charming & had lost her husband 3 mos ago Lives in Ravenna.

Sunday. Morning Accademia
High lights
Armenian Island 1717. Mekhitar of Sebaste founded it.

aft Chioggia by boat, studied Italian made acquaintance Sig. Gra Matta Comalschi
n.6059 - &. c... whiskers - hand waving - went wading lost boat had to take the Espresso. Grace & he talked French all
way home.
Mon- packed for Cortina went even went for wonderful Gondola ride. Back corners M Tola house - S. Miracoli lovely
gardens, dancing shadows of leaves. Bridge with young men singing - man in evening suit stands up in Gondola gives
Fasciste salute & sings a verse ... . Then all run to next bridge & greet him again.

Giobatta in Sq. walking out other man. Meets us when we leave & walks home with us.
Went to Tocello, Murano & Burano 3 of one afternoon bought tickets from Cook.
Joined Italian Touring Club (15 [lira?]

Gibraltar comes to dock & wave goodbye.
Cortina Motor boat 8-to Mest... took auto fare 130l (Round trip 200) arrived a little after 1 had lunch hunted hotel
finally got in Regina new one Room on top floor with servants - Beautiful view nice people "Contessa & Marchesa."
Took many wonderful walks. next morning sat under tree & wrote letters - out day to Larch grove - One day in lovely
Park - everywhere rushing mt. streams pink crocuses - blue bells yellow-flowers-enormous purple self heal - an
occasional gentian.
One day walked to Tre Crois & had tea. another up behind ... to Lago Sals...

all the way through larch woods - marvellous view at Lake.
another to Lago Ghedina very small but lovely walk past chapel & tower west of Hotel.
another day took Funicula to Belvedere & spent day wonderful view - most touching Military cemetary in larch grove
Monument made of Helmets trench shovels hand grenades etc mounted on ... rough stones ... mounted by a large shell.
Little chapel had almost lifesize picture of soldier standing in snow beside

the body of his fallen comrade with cold dolomite peaks rising in distance.
Family came to put flowers on an officers grave.
Newrly every evening we went to Concordia to hear music. Ben Franklin minto, secco!
Sunday took marvellous gita to Lago Alleghe with Marchesa & Roman Surgeon - wife. One Passo di Falzorego. the
most magnificent scenery I ever saw
Many very blue gentians Bought some Edelweis. Saw little S. Lucia. Colfana was where
the Surgeon was stationed during the war. Bought wonderful heavy brogues for tramping (130 lire)

name of Bootmaker -

In evenings talked Italian to the Romans - Marchesa
one evening to Lucarellis of Naples - lovely picture of baby - (Papa kisses it)
met ... American ... from Calif. daughter married French count - Little Arline's
perfect manners. Grandson Nanno's father a count Sabia - Palazzo Sabia with
Tiepolo frescoes of Antony & Cleopatra.
Bird on Grace's brow
My shoes. People from Charleston

45 l [lire]

Aug 2
Tues - Venezia Hotel Regina - arrived at 3 left Port 8.15 AM

High Spots;
Pillar in ducal Palace on Piazetta - Romeo & Juliet Scenes gita from Molo.
Went to Academia Wed.
Saw Deposition of Titian
Bellinis, Carpaccios & Tintorettos & Tiepolos again

Thurs - went to
Scuolo di San Rocco
Chiesa " " "
in afternoon St. Giovanis ... Schia... for Carpaccios

Fri. Museo Cirico very interesting
Ruskin calls picture of 2 Courtesans the best there
Majolica from Wood Cuts in Edition of Ovid.
Little wooden carving of J. Caesar:
Marvellous Ebony & Walnut

dining room set carved with Nigger's-men holding up arms of chairs little Nigger boys on backs of arms - in various
charming attitudes, eating grapes playing bagpipes asleep, etc - ragged suits showed bare knees (ebony) sticking

Sat - Went up in Campanile wonderful & surprising view - no canals visible only roofs, roofs & the lovely campaniles
& islands in Lagoon.

In aft went to ... for lunch and walked along shore where Byron used to ride horseback.
4 charming Italian Lads walked with us. -all for

4-17 I should say
My comrade had studied English in school. Was now a Book keeper but studied at home & took the Exams. Had read
Longfellow, Defoe Jack London & knew all about Hollywood & our movie stars. , walked to Malamocro originally
Ducal seat until 1st Century when honor passed to Venice.

Sunday Aug 28.

Spent morning reading Lucas a wander in Florence & writing an outline of what I had seen. Lunched at Buonvecchiata.
Lobster & tomato salad. Then to Rialto to see Gobbo di Rialto. statue of a dwarf, bearing a stone tablet on his

S. Gio. Elemosenaris closed for repairs?
head from which the laws were read. Saw S. Giacomello di Rialto oldest church in Venice

S. Madonna dei Miraculi lovely Byzantine Romanesque church. Barell vaulted nave no aisles choir raised 14 steps
lovely carved lecterns & balustra with amoretti ... that suggested Mina da Fiesole.
The unfinished sculpture ... Last supper on passage to Sacristy. Beautiful painted ceiling - near doors a Palma Vecchio
Madonna that stood on a cloud & crescent moon & St. Ciara by Bellini. whole interior trimmed with various colored

like San Marco.

Aug 29 - Padua.
Trip by boat 1/2 hr to Fusina 1 1/2 hr to Padua. Round trip 9 L.
Chapel of Arena Best light morning
Giotto frescos of life of Virgin

" " Christ

Beautiful pastel shades in Coln - vivid cobalt blue ceiling & skies.

Best are Adoration of Magi
Presentation in Temple
Flight into Egypt
xx Deposition

St. Antonio -
Large church all old frescos Gone from nave because church was used as hospital during Plague & whitewashed just
suggestion of old ones ... visible.

Tombs of Gatamelata cute little cat on carving over tomb of Father

[small drawing of cat] and in painting of heraldry above [another small drawing of cat)
Beautiful base of ... tomb of Admiral Contarini
flat reliefs of old Venetian ships
Some frescoes in chaple[sic] on right
Aisle Transept by Attichiero
Life of St. James - behind Altar Crucifixion.

x Left transept tomb of Saint all around walls lovely reliefs of life of St. Anthony.
Many people were holding hands or head dresses or bundles against the back of tomb.
...-bronze doors & figures by Donatello. On back of altar beautiful terracotta relief of deposition by D. on front 12 little
Amoretti musicians Wonderful carved bronze candelsticks[sic] largest in world

Venice. Had tea with Mrs Meade, Contessa Lalia. Countes[sic] de Maliniese sig. Minaldi e Nano. at Palazzo Lalia Dofin
Very interesting. Lower floors rented to German artist Beautiful garden.
Stairs hung with lovely dull grey brocades,
Large salone with interesting old furniture & pictures & books. Beautiful views from balconies bedroom very
interesting large low bed. Charming people.
Went to Alberone Lido by boat had a bath, costume & all for 2 Lire same back by Autobus to Lido.

Revisited San Zaccharias Pictures.
x Bellini Madonna 4 Sts & Angel Musicians
Best light at early morning beautiful picture

Nuns Chapel
Titian Mater Dolorosa
Palma Giovann

" Vecchio
Lovely guilded[sic] choir ....

Madonna by Vivarini
Tintoretto - Nativity of John
the baptist over the door.

In old church we saw part of a mosaic pavement & the chairs the Doges used to sit in when they came there once a year.

churches visited.

St. Anastasia - Gothic unfinished brick facade portal of marble.
Interior 12 large columns.
2 baptismal fonts upheld by hunch back dwarfs.
Terra cotta reliefs of life christ - beautiful kneeling figure of donor - (life size)

Cathedral Romanesque
Reliefs on portal? paladins of Charlemagne
Columns & Griffins
Inside tomb of St. Agatha

x Assumption by Titian
Golden light in Sky.
much same color as one in F.... Madonna
has hands folded.

Interesting cloisters - early christian mosaic.

Benedictine - Lovely cloister

double columns partly 2 storied __ __
| |__| |

St. Zeno Magguire
finest Romanesque building in N. Italy
flat roofed basilica - pillars & columns.
Very high altar broad plain steps.

x Ma..tegna. Madonna ...
surrounded by angelic musicians & saints. (Best light early morning)
In crypt early columns & later columns & pillars much stone from
amphitheater some beautifully carved.

San Fermo Romanesque.
Benedictine - fine roof of larch wood.

S. Maria in Organo
lombard period rebuild by Benedictines
Frescoes by Morone - old testament
x Choir Stall's intarsia views of Town above many charming animals
Sacristy also by Fra Giovanni -
Morone frescoes half length portraits of Monks & saints.

In afternoon Amphitheater
(M..) Roman theater
Giardino Giusti:
marvellous cypress trees
500 yrs old.
Piazza Erbis
Juliet's House
Romeo's house stable
The tomb - noticed hole in end & side supposed to

be for Juliet to breathe out of

Milan - Sunday afternoon
left at 4.25 - arrived at 6.58

Monday morning Cathedral
Found for first time that
... was painted not cut out of stone!
Such a disappointment!!

In afternoon went to

S. Maria delle Grazie to see
Leonardo's last Supper.
Sat a long time looking at it.

Shesa Arrived at 11.30. EH at 12.15 - nice little Hotel in a charming Garden

In afternoon took a barca to Isole dei Pescatore for tea. a quaint little island of fisher folk that ends in a green point with
double row of plane trees
Had tea at Verbano.

Next day it rained so we only went out for tea

Thurs in morning to Isola Bella - Castle of Borromeo family.
Flemish tapestries of 17th cent a series of portraits of all sorts of animals very curious. . Lovely pictures mostly copies.

Beautiful garden on 10 terraces containing all sorts of trees & plants from all parts of the tropical world. Camphor tree,
tea, coffee, eucalyptus - sensitive plant etc etc.
Then rowed on to Bavena.

In afternoon took a Cook trip to Orta.
Rowed over to Island of St. Julien where there was a most interesting monastery came from Greece in 379 - old frescoes
by Ferzari, School of Giotto

lovely rose, red ...
12th century pulpit of black marble carved with very primitive representions of 4 evangelists.
In sacristy a Magdalen by Guido Reni - wonderful old vestment
In crypt the body of the Saint lies.

See 2 pages ahead please.

Sept 9 Left 8.40 by boat Sat morn.
a beautiful day. Went up the Lake to Luino
arrived 10.30 took Electric tram to Ponte Fresa ar. 11.
on to Lugarno ar 1. had lunch on boat 18 L.
stayed in Locarno[sic] till 2.15
Tried to see a Luini Madonna in old church
but it was closed between 12 & 2.
no stores would take my Italian money
so we didn't spend any.
went down Lake to Porlezza 4.97 then took train
to Menaggro ar 5.07 (?)
to Bellagio at 5.24.
the whole day was fascinating. The three lakes
were all

very different.

Locarno so green The trip between Locarno & Como was along a deep gorge -(best view on left side)- we saw another
tiny Lake on the way. Fortunately we had a perfect day.

We stayed at Hotel Florence with a beautiful terrass[sic] on lake where we have breakfast - Our rooms are in the Villa

-up the hill across a dear little garden from the main hotel - Grace & I have a big double room with 3 windows - one on
the front so we get a small view of the lake around the corner of the hotel. Below the windows is a trelliss[sic] of
Jacquimol[?] Roses in bloom

Stresa continued

1 hr trip each way

Sept 9 - In afternoon we went up on rack & pinion road to Mortarone - the track is very steep in places - once the power
went off & we began to roll back it caught then lessened & we rolled some more but caught.
On the way up we saw the biggest bluest gentians ever seen!
The view from the top was superb - 6 lakes visible tho' the air was not clear. & such rows & rows of mountains to the
west! We climbed to the top where there is a cross. Well worth the climb. Had tea at hotel. We were sorry we hadn't
come in

the morning & spent the day!

Sunday In the morning EH & I ate breakfast out on terrass wrote letters. Then sauntered up to Church as there was a
festa The little church tower was all hung with Japanese lanterns. An old lady took us round to the sacristy to see the
gifts to the madonna which had been brought in by the parish people.
Baskets full of bottles of wine wreathed with garlands. Great cakes with very fancy icings with just a little bunch of
flowers in the middle & even a live wooly lamb? These were to be auctioned off

in the piazza after the procession.
Then we went down to the Villa again & at 2.30 the processeion of the Nativity of the Virgin came down the hill. Priests
& parishioners all led by a band with long straight feathers in their hats. men in coarse vestments of white with scarlet
capes & white hoods children & women with lovely white net veils - all carrying candles - Banners then finally the little
Virgin & Babe in their Baldichino. & behind 3 priest in wonderful embroidered vestments

all so common & homely but lighted with a reverence that raised it above the ordinary level. After they left us a terrific
shower came up & they must have all gotten soaked.

Monday. Sept 12.

Morning - walked up to Villa Serbelloni the sight[sic] of one of Pliny's villas a beautiful walk thro' pine woods out to
end of point where you looked over the Lucca arm of the lake ... this one.
At one point there is a tunnel where one can see both the Villa Carlotta on one side of the Lake & Arvenna on the other

In the afternoon walked down the Lake & came back by an upper road & stopped in to see the
x Villa Guilio - wonderful gardens. climbed 280 steps to get a view of the whole peninsula. This villa is now owned by
Leon Goldsmith.

Tues Sept 19. Hired a barca 70 l for day & barcaiolo to row us to Villa Carlotta. Took Chestini & went 1st to Villa - saw
Canovas Cupid & Psyche
Torwalsen Frieze of Triumph of Alex the Great - ordered by Napoleon for Rome - but he was defeated before it was
finished But Thorwalsen[sic] was paid to finish it by
The Gardens were beautiful Especially Australian Tree Ferns

Then down Lake to Island of Comacina beautiful spot little old church on it - Where we ate lunch. After Lunch went
back to x villa Arconati very lovely - a favorite of Miss Hanks. On a point with 2 entrances to lake & lovely garden owned
now by a Mrs Gen Ames of Boston Mass Then across Lake to a small Grotto. Grayish Green much like blue
After that bought shawls EH gave me a beautiful Peacock one for my birthday. - on street that goes up hill from end of
stores by Hotel Brattagne) - 100 L.

Thurs. Sept 15. Left Bellagio at 9.24. reached Como 11.14.
visited Cathedral saw beautiful Luinis.
"wonderful Flemish & Italian tapestries only hung. on festa days"

Left Como at 12.14 reached Milan at 1.30 ate lunch from Ostinis brought from Hotel

Registered at Hotel then went to Museo Ambrosiano - to se Rafael's Cartoon for School of Athens in Vatican Leonardo
head for that of Plato

Portrait of B. Diste (?) L. da Vinci
The Musician
Botticelli Madonna & Angels

" & Child
Luini S. John & Lamb.
Sacred Family
Baroccio Birch Christ

Then to Biera bit as it c;pased at 4 we only had 1/2 hr.
High Lights -
Madonna in bower of Roses - Luini

Rafael - Eposalizio -

Frescoes by Luini
Veronese - Christ at House of Simon the Pharisee
Finding the body of St Mark
Titian - St. Gerome

Mantegna Madonna in nimbus of Angels Heads.
Crivelli - Madonna of the Little candle
Bramante - Heraclitus & Democritus

(Laughing & crying Philosophers
Rembrant[sic] Portrait of his Sister
Thos. Lawrence. Portrait of Canova

In evening Grace & I went to call on Signora Janna's daughter Mimi Cragnicolini - a charming youg married girl a
Theosofist - very winning & enthusiastic lovely little apt full of interesting Eastern things & a ... pussy cat. We talked
about her mother & Theosophy - & she gave us each a ricordo in the shape of a booklet mine was Art & Development
from the Occultists pt of view

Nest morning to Poldi Pezzoli.
High lights.
Portrait of Bianca?
Guardi-Small dark picture
-The lagoon in Venice
Tiepolo. several pictures & sketches
Tapestry Queen of sheba wonderful fabric of costumes

Bronze bust of Ulpiano Volpi by Bernini

Albertinelli Small altarpiece Madonna - on inside of ... St Catherine & S. Barbara on outside
Annunciation - Death's head on back.

Morone - Samson & Delilah S-
dras head on Cap of D. boy cutting hair
1 Signed Carpaccio
Cerna - Bacchus & Ariadne
Mantegni Madonna
Andrea Solario. Ecce Homo

Sat Sept 17 Left Milan 6.50 AM reached Firenze 1.30.
came to Pensione - then went shopping - had tea at Donys

Sunday Sept 18 -
Uffizzi in morning-
Italian Paintings
Cimabue Madonna & Child
Botticelli room
Cosimo Medici by P...
Portraits of Medicis by Bronzino.
Leonardo's adoration of Magi (unfinished)

In aft called on Signora Roselli

Monday. S. Maria Novella
Frescoes by Masaccio Trinity
Over door crucifix in style of Giotto.

Capella Dei Bardi. by Aretino
" " Strozzi Tomb by Ben.
da Maiano Frescoes by Filippino Lippi.

Choir . Ghirlandaio frescoes (his greatest work) Annunciation scenes from life of Mary etc.
Right wall life of J. the Baptist

Capella Gondi
Crucifix of Brunelleschi - which started rivalry with Donatello
Left Transept. Capella Dei Strozzi
Frescoes by Arcagna
Paradise, Hell. Judgment.
Dante & Petrarch

Capella Dei Spagnuoli. frescoes of Giotto's school.

Cloisters Verde - Frescoes by Ucelli (Perspecive of God)
" - Old - 2 small frescoes by Giotto.

Sept 22
Mes A festa nationale to commemorate the taking of Rome in '78.
Went to Ognisanti. Saw frescoes by Ghirlandaio
portraits of Vespucian family
St Aug. by Botticelli
S Jerome " Ghirlandaio.

S. Maria del Carmine
for Masaccio & Filippino Lippi
Masaccio Adam & Eve.
# Expulsion from Eden
Miracles of S. Peter
Corsini Chapel
Sacristy - old wooden ceiling & Gothic windows
Cloister Frescoes school of Giotto
Damaged ... by Masaccio

San Spirito.
Madona by Filippino Lippi


Afternoon shopped wento[sic] to S. Croce to see Chapels decorated by Gioto. Life of St. Frances[sic]. etc.

Thurs Uffizi again in morning.
Saw Venetian School.
Titians, Tiepolos Veronese

In afternoon went to Boboli Gardens. Saw Michelangelo's Grotto (4 unfinished figures)
Sat in amphitheater & looked at wonderful view toward Fiesole.

Fri In morning shopped
In afternoon to Fiesole to see Theater - temple much more excavated - Cathedral raised choir - lovely Mino de Fiesole Had
tea at English tea room
Before we went Piero Roselto called.

Sat. In morning shopped.
In afternoon went into S. Croce again - This time again looking at chapel

Donatello's cricifixion

Nero war memorial.

Pieta in center. conventionalized reliefs on side
Conventional stained glass window with names of
Piane, Vittorio, Trentino etc
on. - Tombs of Bruni & ... Desiderio da Settignano opposite Gallileo. etc.

Sun Cenocala di Castagna
... ... painting full of vitality with Judas on one side of table alone

Chiosio del Scalzo
Andrea del Sarto |Mono...
Franciabigia |

frescoes of life of John Baptist & Life of Mary

San Marco
Beautiful tree in cloister
wonderful pictures.
Madonna of the Star stolen but gotten back again
The wonderful blue of the background of pictures strikes the eye!

Cenacola of Ghirlandaio
very like the one of Castagna - a little cat at Judas feet. Blue embroidered ends of

table cloth -
The one at Ogni Santi very like it - Critics think Leonardo must have seen this before he left Florence.

Peruginis crucifixion
Beautiful in simplicity of composition & expressions on the faces.

Spent afternoon at home writing letters.

Sept 26
Mon - San Trinita to see the Tiburtine Sybl[sic] announcing to Augustus the birth of Christ Ghirlandaio frescoes.

San Salis - Took Corozza (not fun) to see the great Cenacola di Andrea del Sarto. One of the most beautiful pictures in
Florence in lovely color & beauty of expression. "The only one worthy to be compared with Leonardo's."

Tues. Saw EH off on 9.40 to Rome - then went in S. Maria Novella again to see Ghirlandaio frescoes
Then to San Lorenzo to see Medici tombs & Donatello pulpits
Saw fragments that had been stolen
In afternoon I went to Signora Roselli's & took her picture. Then met Grace in Duomo & went to Donys for tea.

10 L

Wed. Went to Pitti in afternoon- "Bad guard"
High Lights
Many Andrea del Sartos -
my John the Baptist
Rafael Gran duca
Madonna della Sedio
Many wonderful portraits:
Titians - Portrait of a yound man - Papa Giulio

Sept 29

Thursday. Santa Croce. Pozzi Chapel & Cloisters.
Lovely Donatello & Desiderio de Lettignao
frieze of Cupids heads
Dello Robia spandrels of 4 evangelists figures of Apostles-

Della Robia
Giambologna Mercury

Sept 30
Fri - Riccardi Chapel for Benozzi Gonzoli frescoes.
Afternoon tea with Signora Roselli at Arte della Lana
Then took her home in a carozza.

Oct 1
Sat. Up on Prazzole di Michael Angelo in aft Then to Pias for final fittings or rather collecting of dresses.
Mine were both terrible & had to be left.

Oct 2
Sun in morning to S S Innunziati to hear special music
large choir & full orchestra. We had seats which a lady in

S. Croce gave Grace. Took Dorothy Hewitt
The music was magnificent

and the whole mass quite spectacular with a Cardinal to be dressed & undressed followed by many gorgeously attired
In the afternoon we went up to Fiesole and first visited the Convent of S. Giovanni then had tea with the Piero Rosellis
Carmela came to the door & said "I am Carmela. I love your sister." Little Alberto is beautiful & precocious. Their apt
is so charming - with a Magnificent view of Florence
A dear little garden with a fig tree in the center, and such charming people. A Mr. Coventry an

Englishman who is on the Daily Mail was there with the cutest little 4 yrs old boy I ever saw.
Mon. Packed went to Pia's twice and did very little else.
Tues. Oct. 4. Left Florence at 1.40 reached Rome 7.05
Wed - Oct 5- Unpacked in morning in aft drove on Pincio out past the Woodruffs new place.

had tea in the Park.
Thurs Oct 6. Ostia by elec tram - Lost hat!

Fri Oct 6 In afternoon went up to Academy to here[sic] Prof Bartoc cini lecture on the K
... at Leptis Magna. Could understant most of the lecture. He had beautiful pictures of

Sun Oct 8 In morning to new Mussolini museo in Capitoline - Saw same attractive guard that I always have seen. He's
been promoted now. His name is Sefanoro.
The museo is most interesting - on site of German embassy - lovely. garden m

In aft tea at Castello dei Caesari with Mrs Van Buren, Mother Grace & Ida as guests. A marvellous sunset. Then saw the
moon rise behind colisseum on way home.

Mon S. Maria Sofia Minerva
Saw frescoes by Filippino Lippi (very bad light

Tues Oct 11. Ostia Scais in morn.

11. AM from Porto San Paolo
1/2 hr by elec. train
Found gold fountain pen
" lovely green glass handle of vase
Kitten - Mother Superior from Syracuse & other Italian girl
Pavements in black & white mosaic - one a fish shop.

house of Diana so called from little bas relief of Diana on wall.
Mithraic room locked up because people tried to pick out pieces of mosaid. beautiful Victory Pantheon or round
Statues of Roma (?)

At 2.30 Mother Grace & Mrs Robinson joined us & we went on for tea at Ostia Marina.

Wed In the morning we went to the Rag Market on the Campo del Fiore
I bought a lovely mosaic on green malachite - the Pantheon.
In the afternoon we went to the Villa Medici on the Pinci. It is now the French Academy.
The garden is beautiful The back of the Villa is covered with bits of reliefs - some supposed to be copies or portions of
the Ars Pacis.

Thurs In the morning had an Italian lesson.
In the afternoon went to tea with Mrs Van Buren
met some people from the British Academy.
She had a beautiful apartment & is so charming

Friday. spent the day with Sister at Frascati at the Woodruffs.

They have a villino in the grounds of the Villa Aldohand... and
their garden looks out on the great grove of Ilix trees & olives with Rome
in the distance. The lunch was delicious

After lunch we went for a long drive to Rocco di Papa - Albano, Giotto Ferrata etc.
at G. F. we visited an old church or monastery where there were interesting Frescos by Domenichino - one representing

S. healing a boy who had fits. The boy was wonderfully realistic. There was a museo with many fragments from a
villa of Cicero near by.

Sat. In aft, rode out Appian Way on the new bus as far as Tomb of Cecilia Metella. Had tea at Litonas. Counted 48 cats
in Foro Traiano.
Visited church of San Sebastiano where Christ is supposed to have met Paul fleeing from Rome where he stopped when
Paul said "Domine, quo vadis his foot prints were left in the stone. Christ replied "to Rome to be crucified again. So
Paul returned.

Sunday Oct 16 Musea Augusto in morning. S. Ambrosia convent. a new museum where a collection has been made of
casts & photographs of things from all the Provinces - wonderfully interesting. On ground floor a boat with wolfs head,
containing wine casks & men rowing.

Mon. S. Giovanni de Paolo to see the Christian House with frescoes under the church, where two brothers John & Paul
suffered martyrdom. In the dining room a frieze of birds & vines One eating a lizard, one a mouse, one a bunch of
a man praying had on a flowing robe banded in dark red. a beautiful mosaic border around the door.

Tues Oct 18 - Nothing of note.
Walked in Pincio in aft.
Had tea at Roseo.
Bought a hat for 15 L ... of Vio Torino & Nationale

Wed Oct 19. Ida Grace & I went to
Sta Pressede - old titular church of 5th cen. supposed built over house of Pressede, filia de Pudens Sorella di Pudentiana.
Rebuilt 9th cent by Paschal
Mosaics of apse & St. Zeno Chapel chief attractions
Square blue halo means the St was still living.
Mosaic art revived in 9th cent because of establishment of Holy Roman Empire & coronation of Charlemagne. 4
churches rebuilt. Sta Pressede, S. Maria Domenica, Sta Cecilia S. Marco.

Brownings. "The Bishop chooses his tomb" is here.
A 13th cent tomb of Cardinal Anchera is very fine - bisantine mosaic border on front.
St. Pudentiana has a marvelously realistic mosaic in apse which was cut off in 16th century rebuilding.
Went down to house underneath - where St. Peter was supposed to have visited Pudens & his daughters.
Saw floor of house floor of 1st church (subterranean.)
small fresco in nave of 2nd church. Baptismal font that St. Peter is supposed to have used. In afternoon went to tea at Mr
& Mrs Stevens at Academy. Villa Aurelia - wonderful view, beautiful house.

Thurs. No sightseeing. Studied in morning walked with EH in afternoon. Grace sick in bed with stomach.

Fri. Morning S. Maria Maggiore saw Septine Chapel & Pope Pius 5 whose flesh is supposed to be miraculously
preserved. A St. Gerome by Ribera. A fresco by Guido Reni. Borghese chapel has portrait by S. Mark but it was
... mosaics on apse & triumphal arch

In afternoon went to Chiesa dei Quatri Coronati: a very quaint old church with 2. courts. The second made when the
church was reduced in size so

the old pillars of the nave are embedded in the side walls.
The cloisters were lovely - white cowled nuns were making silver filigre[sic] flowers in the lovely flowergarden.
On one side a small room had remnants of a Theotokos Madonna in a niche and a queer painted wooden box apparently
once some kind of an organ with a picture of St. Cecelia on the back.
The cosmati pavement of church was beautiful.
The 4 crowned Saints were killed because they refused to make statues for pagans
In a sort of Chapter house were wonderful frescoes of the life of St. Constantine when he had leprosy & was cured by a
vision of St. Peter & Paul who told him to go to

San Silvestio...He bestowed the temporal power on Pope Silvestio. We saw the grating through which the cloistered
nuns pass out the key & two "loud speakers" where they listen to the service from their gallery in the convent.
After that we drove around the Pasaggio Archaeologico & back of baths of Caracalla. Had tea at Rosatis & walked


Sun Morning Capitol museo in afternoon tea at Bar Esquilino

Mon S. Paolo fuori Muri
Protestant Cemetery
Young man with flowers on Keats grave.

Tues went with Adademy out. Appian Way Baths of Caracalla Columpania of Vigna Codini.
Jewish Catacombs
Church of S. Sebastiano
Founded by Constantine
statue of St. by Giorgetti
Original stone of Quo Vadis
under church Catacombs
& house of St. Peter & Paul
on wall near house are many
inscriptions appealing to P. & P to pray
for the soul of the dead which is
considered one of the strongest
proofs that they were really in Rome.

Wed Lecture at Academy on Etruscan Art & Civilization
Thurs started on trip to tomb. Left at 8.30 for ...
38 miles out Porta Aurelia. Rode in car with Prof. Robinson,
Sig Mengarelli. 1 1/2 hr to ....
See notebook for tombs etc
Ate lunch in straw capanna
drank toast to Mengarelli
In afternoon went on to new ...
in deep ravine long street of tombs
Left for Civitavecchia
at 4.30 arrived at 6
Lovely hotel facing the
water - The Grande Hotel de
[several unfamiliar words]
still to be seen.
Walked about town before dinner.
Beautiful sunset

Oct 28
Fri - Left at 8.30 for Tarquinia
took about 1 1/2 hrs along the sea.
Stayed at Albergo Gentili
plain & comfortable.
Ate at trattoria - bad food. wonderful museo
in old Palace
Old church Chiesa dell Castiello 11th cent
destroyed by French
Part of church part of
city wall.
In afternoon visited 14 tombs. Walked home
by starlight
Sat. a perfectly magnificent drive
from Tarquinia via Civetavecchia
to ... Stopped at Branciano to visit
Oldaschalchi Palace.
Orsini family built it.

The drive was marvellous first by the sea then across the Mts where there really was quite a little Autumn coloring.
Passed several flocks of sheep one had a new born lamb in Donkeys saddlebag.
Castle marvellous situation above Lake crimson creeper on wall.
Old furniture still in place on first floor.
Old lamps - china
furniture & beautiful frescoes by Anton Romano very like Bennezo Gozzoli a ... with portraits of Piero Medici & others.
This was where Isabella Medici was strangled

and thrown down the Oubliette.
One room had many Etruscan finds.
The library was beautiful - one end
raised a little contained book cases
to ... full of leather bound beautiful
volumes - at the other end of the great
room there was a balcony overlooking the lake.
Mts came down to its very shores & were
reflected in its calm waters.
In afternoon we went on to... where EHH.
...H & Grace met us. We saw part of the
old wall & ... - Then on to the Tomba de
Compana an early fresco

showing Ionian influence & saw the Bridge cut in rock to let water flow beneath.

Oct 30
Sunday. A great celebration for March on Rome & cessation of war.
Heard bands the first thing in the morning. Grace & I went out but did
not see much
Met Mr. Waldron & came home together.
In afternoon walked with EH & Ida & Grace down
the Campo dei Fiori to see Renaissance architecture.
Saw place of Pompey's theater.
Palazzo Cancelleria

" Spadi

Jan 1.

Commenced New Years at Buffis after theater.
In morning went to a Suri meeting at Mrs Crays
47 Via Giovanni Paiesinelli
walked thru Villa Borghese Met Miss Gettings &
Miss Moore
In aft went to Concert at Augusteo with Grace
and walked along the ... before it.

Jan 2. In morning took walk with Miss Moore
Trajans Forum - Foro of Augustus - Count of Palazzo
with lovely garden opposite back wall of F. Aug.
Saw ... of For. Julius C.
Saw big part of pillar just dry up below & back of
Araceli went up to garden of Ara C.

down steps in front of Campodoglio - around to see Church
of S. Cath dei Frenais of with lovely Church belfry beyond &
terrass with plants & flowers. Into S. Maria di Campitelli &
saw a darling Presepio. To Theater of Marcello & Portico of Octav.

Into Pal. Near Fontano di Torturighe "with finest Renaissance
court in Rome
Then to Pal Massimo in Corso again & then home
In the afternoon we went to St. Onofrio on Gianiculo
where Tasso is buried - & saw the fresco of St. Anna
teaching the Vergin[sic] to read (tho the priest said it was
not the Vergin because it has a cross on the front:
The Vergin teaching Christ to read

a bas relief of Tasso's funeral. He was to receive the crown of Rome but died that very day so was crowned after death.
Frescoes by Peruzzi & Pinturicchio
a beautiful annunciation in the 1st chapel on right.
Then we went to have tea with Mr Lord & Miss Brett.
in their dear little apt. at Academy but oh! how cold their bed rooms were!

Jan 3
Tues. Went to Castro di Volsci with Mrs Gray & Mrs Simpson
to take some Christmas gifts.
Never saw a more perfect day! Cold mountains white with
snow willow trees bright yellow with new sap. ... golden
with old leaves still on.
Went thru Ferentino. Saw Alatio & Agnagni again
Poor little village way up on hill. Such darling children!
Lovely nuns & most interesting refined young priest.
Ate lunch in open. Children sang for us. Sisters treated
us to cakes & delicious wine!

Jan 4. Rag market. Silver chain for purse 25 l
pictures 50 cent.
afternoon Galenga's
Mrs Webbs for tea - wonderful Apt.
Then to concert at Augusteo with her in box.
Home in her car.

Jan 5.

Jan 6 - Epiphany - went for walk to S. Saba - & S. Balbino on Aventine in morning
Lovely old churches.
Wonderful Praesepio in latter like Postumia Grottoes

in aft went up to see process of Mambino in Ara Coeli but couldnt wait
Went to Theater (Argentino) saw Zia Bonnfleur - comical but buffoonery

Sat went to Horaces Salme Farm Bianchi took us for 250 Lire. Bought a Saline Water Jar for 35 L Had beautiful day.

Sun Jan 8 - Service of ... Movement at Mrs Craig's
47 Via Giovane[sic] Piaesielli
Mrs Simpson went with me - afterwards drove thro
Borghese & on to Palazzo Spada saw inside of it
Statue of Pompey which is supposed to be the one
at whose feet Caesar was killed.

Frescoes of Schools of J. Romano & M. Angelo.
Lovely Greee Bass[sic] Relieves[sic]
In afternoon saw King of Afghanistan &
Royal ... - Had tea at Latanos with Signorina
Antenori - Saw troops march down Via Nationale
Went to Theater saw P... in ... Che Ballano

Mon Jan 9. In aft tea at Latanos with Mrs Simpson
In evening played Cards with Miss Gittings at Hotel Majestic.

Tues Jan 10. In morning went to see some Umbrian Embroideries
in aft to Mr Mathers 93rd birthday party
then to Signora Rapacavalo to see some Spiritualists
with Mrs Simpson. Met Anderson the Sculptor.

Had audience with Pope
Tea at Latanos with
Signa Scolari

Thursday - Went to Mrs Stevens tea in afternoon
in morning to

Evening played cards with Miss Gittings at Majestic

Fri -

Sat - Lecture at Academy in Aft - walked down with Mr. Green tea at
Evening to Theater to see Glanko a play of time of Ulysses - Circe.

Sun. Campidoglio museum in morning
In afternoon walked over on Pincio
had tea at Casino delle Rose.
In evening went to a New Thought
meeting at home of Mrs

Mon - went through the restorations of Piazza Venezia
Then tea at Mrs Brecks.
wonderful frescoes by supposedly (Bramante)

Tues - Miss Hawes & Miss Wilson had a tea

Wed - Went to Lockwoods to lunch - to see Roberts doll's house -
Then to the Ashmoles to tea.
at the British Academy met some nice Eng people
Mrs Salter asked us to come to see her husbands studio

Thursday Saw Aurora by Guido Reni - on ceiling of hall of Pal. Rospigliosi
Beautiful coloring

Fri - In morning to San Clemente to see the Roman house ... - old ... Wall
old Basilica. Then tried to find tombs on Latin Way but couldnt - tried twice
finally got to Columbaria of Flavia on Appian Way.
In afternoon went to tea at home of Signorina Serra Grace's Italian teacher.
Such a charming family Mother Doctor Brother & Boy a little she dog.

Jan 21 - 10. (but nearer 11)
Sat To St Agnese to see lambs blessed. Such a lovely ceremony
Hundreds of children there beautiful music with organ & violin as well as voices.

Two little lambs were brought in tied in baskets - one bedecked with red ribbons & flowers - the other with white - They
were carried to the altar attended by "Daughters of the Madonna" dressed in white garnished with blue ribbons - The
lambs were blessed at the altar. The fleece is used for the Pallia of the Pope.

In the afternoon we went to tea at Miss

Moores. Met a Dr & Mrs Jones from Belfast & an Italian woman Signorina Barozza
who copied the fresco at the Villa ....

For two hours we had most interesting conversation nearly all in Italian.

Sunday - Campidoglia in morning.
in afternoon to Studio of Mr. Sauter saw beautiful views of Etna.
German artist, young wife - Lovely nude of her holding stalk of Lilies
Mr S's first wife was Galsworthys sister. His son an artist living with the G's.

Jan 23.
Monday spent morning at Tomb on Latin Way beautiful frescoes & stucco - Took tram toward Prascati & got off at
Quadrara. a beautiful day & lovely walk.
Lockwoods to dinner at Boccis

Tues 24 Went to s

after dinner Fraulein Struck took us for coffee to Grande Italia - beautiful music.

Wed Rag market bought lovely pictures. In afternoon to the Ashmoles for tea
Gittings for dinner. Dante Riccis studio in P.M. Tea at Casino delle Rose with Clothilde
Fri Girardets - tea in afternoon

Jan 28
Sat. Morning Vatican - Borgia apt. Raffael stanze - Pinocateca - Lovely primitives Pintorecchios Madonna - Raffael's
In aft gave tea at Casino delle Rose. Great success.

Sun Jan 29. Morning - Campidoglio Said Goodbye to A. S. walked on Palatine & Forum with EH & Miss Hendley after
disposing of dying cat. In aft went to Mrs Scolaris to tea. Charming Apt. very attractive table gave me some Daffodils Then
to theatre ... ... ... with Pavlowa sister of ... - then for dinner for a final spree with Miss Atkins & Hawes to

Mon - we had tea again at Italia, did odd job errands

Tues [small circle] busy day. Packed.

EH.H's lecture wonderful success
Brit ... Sir Ronald Graham introduced her.
Her speech made a great hit. Afterwards the
dear Grays had a tea at Royale
Mrs. Simpson gave us each a lovely box of Cigarettes.

In Evening Mrs Atkins made us a real oldfashioned
Southern Egg Nogg. delicious
Eggs beaten separate - whiskey put in yolks. then
whipped cream beaten in last.

Wed Feb 1. Spent morning chasing my money which hadn't come
Bought hat box 138 l Suitcase 86. left on 1 oclock train
reached Naples at 5.40 Wonderful day. Snow on mts but
glorious sunset over Vesuvius.

Fri EH. went with us for day at
Feb 2 Sorrento 9 oclock boat (26 l round trip)
Hotel delightful. Spent morning on terrass in sun

next day walked to town prowled around went to Hotel
Sirene to see where Vergil ... Aug offered Marble Amorino to
Venus in temple to ask her aid in finishing the Aeneid

Feb 3 - Drove to Pompeii in morning beautiful drive 60 l
for ... in Carozza 2 hrs. met EH in morning
saw new excavations on St of Abundance. beautiful frescoes -
one garden with much of blue in decorations.
one garden scene painted on wall. One room had 4 myth
subjects. Perseus & Andromeda - Phaethon & Icarus in same
picture &

a lovely Venus & Mars

Cast of little child with arm across eyes
lying on floor of his little bedroom where
he had died alone.

After lunch at Hotel Swiss went to Villa ...
to see Mysteries of Dionysius again
They are starting to excavate beyond.

Feb 4 Sun Museum in morning
saw Bronzes from Pompeii & also frescoes
again. In afternoon took a walk
went to Opera and heard Manon Lescaut
beautiful done.

Mon Feb 5 Took a car to ...
Marvellous excavations 25 meters deep.
They have found that there were many
entrances just as Vergil said
VI 22-24 is quoted at entrance

also several cut openings to Temple of Apollo
from room of Sybil for amplifiers for Sybils
voice. bits of colored frescoes in her room,
also a statue. without head or arms probably
one of the priestesses.
Temple of Apollo much more excavated. then walked
up to temple of Zeus.
On way home stopped at Baia for lunch saw much-ruined
temple of Diana. Also temple of Serapis now submerged
circular group of pillars in middle. Then to Pozzuoli
for amphitheatre - Guide had arm injured in war very bitter -
spiritualists - most interesting - saw prison where prisoners
were kept till sent to wild beasts.

Tues Feb 7 went to Herculaneum saw first theater - excavated like mines
underground because lava entered and filled it like mud & then hardened.
Saw original inscriptions to [blank space] - the next day saw statue of
father son that was on pedestal
Custode told us many admission tickets were ... ivory with grafita
on a pigeon for sign of top seats
[three dots in form of triangle] now cheap balconies are called
piccioniaia (?) & others with musical instruments for signs of
orchestra seats!
The city itself is not so much interesting as Pompeii but we saw
them actually working! the first excavations were made by slaves

55 yrs. It was discovered when a well was sunk to get
drinking water & was dry right down to middle of theater pit.
We were shown what had just been found that day
bronze pitchers & some glass The day before a beautiful
little bronze bull had been found. The houses that are
built near the Scavi will have to be razed so the work
can go on! Custode had sette bambini "una ogni anno - terrible"

-Carozza ... ate lunch on rocks Cochiere brought chairs.
next day
Feb 9 to Museo - again saw bronzes statues from theater
Then picture gallery wonderful Titian room

Drove along water front in Auto in aft.

Took boat to Palermo at 6.45 on "Trieste"
beautiful boat - moonlight night
on Tues went to Trocedero Sea Room on waterfront
near St Lucia. & stumbled on fashion show from
Paris Most amusing lots of men there.

Feb 10. Arrived Palermo 7.30 nice hotel lovely
rooms with balconies (109 mine)
Sat in sunshine in morning after lunch walked on
water front then had tea at Caflish's - then to
Marionette theater run by Greco family
Grandfather invented & perfected this type of
armoured Marionettes was a Garibaldian
It was marvellous 1st scenes from the life of
Orlando Furioso & the Palladins Then a dance
ballet - man & girl. It was

astonishingly realistic. Perfectly wonderful - it seemed
as if the figures were life size until accidentally the
hand of the operator showed and looked like a giant
After the performance one of the brothers brought
Orlando out & had him kiss our hands & he seemed alive
before the show we had gone to St. Domenico to see
a lovely Van Dyk Madonna - Stas Rosalia Olivia & Caterina
... & crowd of people - one lovely little naked boy
holding his nose because afraid of the plague.
In evening heard concert from Berlin 'on the Air',

Feb 11. Birthday of Sore. Had breakfast out on balcony
with many jokes for her. went to Monreale by train
Lovely day but cold out of sun. Saw little boy trying
on new pants.

Cathedral had mass. Beautiful vestments on Priests
Mosaics more wonderful than ever to me. Saw tomb
of good & bad ... to St Louis. Spent some time in
beautiful cloisters. ... (?) pillars in Mosaic
with every capitol different carving.

Feb 12 - Museo. Metopes from Salinunte - medusa etc
wonderful Tryptych Madonna by Flemish artist.

Feb 13 - Left Palermo for Trapani 9 AM - Molto divestamento
sul tieno - Giovani - one very tall charming wanted

Mia Mama - ...
me to adopt him & take him to N.Y. Lots of fun - commercial travellers-
Beautiful country - almonds in bloom - mountains clouds sea most of
the way fields covered with flowers yellow & white some red - & purple
Primitive village Hotel right on sea with statue of Garibaldi facing
sea where he landed with his .... Place where Auchises died and Aeneas
had games for him.
Walked along sea charming

young officers named Fran took us for walk to
Torre de Signy - marvellous surf - saw Cathedral
Crucifixion by Van Dyck.
Old Templars Church with beautiful rose
window. St Maria del Jesu
with beautiful della Robbia Madonna -
blue angel heads lovely fruit border -
& marble baldichino - carved by Gargino.
Hotel primitive Everyone on Street stared
at us . especially children

Feb 14 - Left at 9 for Mt Giuliano in Auto bus 5 L round trip
Beautiful scenery - sea mts - when we got to top ran into fog.
No view On bus was a little Italian girl who attached herself
to us & went on to top.
Husband in N. Y. hopes to join him soon. When bus stopped
an old man carried my bag up hill
Sig. Antonello Cantello who knew Henry Festing Jones. he
acted as guide all day - ate lunch in primitive hotel
took it out us. Sick baby.
went to old Mediaeval castle built on sight[sic] of temple
of Venus. Saw well of Venus. Some pillars from Temple of

Went to see Apothecary where Ida & Lib stayed.
& old town wall with Phoenician inscription
after lunch Antonello took us to see his house
Pretty daughter 14 or 15 yrs old. Rooms neat
as wax - unusual rag rug woven in pattern
almost like Indian design on white background.
Toilet table with all sorts of empty bottles -
including odorous
Situation of town wonderful on high situation.
Came down had tea A gentleman in dining room
talked to us (Marquise Pantamone) took us for
wonderful drive to see ... Lavigny at sunset
then along the sea to see the place where

Aeneas held his games a circular plane on base of ....
Saw lighthouse on place where Aeneas planted flag for
first arrival - Thrilling.

Feb 15 - Returned to Palermo left 9.00 - arrived 1.50 saw
"Mio filio" on train going in other direction! Went out
to Caflish's & had tea.

Feb 16. 8.40 - 2.40 train to Taormina wonderful trip
along coast mts on other side to Messina where changed
cars. Taormina perfectly lovely. Nice Hotel room
overlooking sea Etna visible if we lean out far
enough. Mostly Tedeschi in Hotel - Darling garden -
delicious food. Marvellous walks to take.

Best place we've ever known Boob boy & Mamma here!
Rushed to Ball in evening to see Tarantalla - Paid 15 L
to get in sat in front of theater couples danced til 10.30 then 1 pair danced T -
terrible frost.

Fri Feb 17 - M morning walked around town in aft. had lovely time
in garden writing letters then tea at "Nuova" where a lovely orchestra of
Guitar etc played Italian music at dinner same Orchestra played.

Sat Rose at 7 took pictures before breakfast - then went for long
walk to Castello Taormina. Stopped at little restaurant for an Americano
then on to top of Castle ... view of Calabria on one side & Etna on the other

stayed till 2 oclock then came down to restaurant
& had cheese sandwich & beer. & walked on down
by 3 Etna was covered with clouds.

Feb 19.
Sunday in morning Carnivale in aft. good costumes
Little boy on Velociped with side car full of
yellow flowers & baby dressed like a violet.
at 3 EH & FG arrived. Walked to Timeo for tea
lovely sunset. In evening to Caffe Nuovo saw

Mon Feb 20 - Walked to Mola E.H. ... at Caffe
Castel, but then went on.
Little baby goars. Hard stony donkey path on
way home Hot & sunny. In aft. Took a nap
went out & saw Carnival then walked to
Theater & sat in

while - Had tea at Caffe Nuova
Tues Feb 21 - Walked to Castello Taormina cold
out of sun after lunch to Old Roman
Theater then watched couples in Costume
dance Tarantella in Piazza
Tea at Eng Tea Room (not much good) after
dinner to Nuova - very empty. Boy dressed up
as girl danced. Charlie Chaplin very good.
Danced with French man.

Wed Feb 22 Syracuse. Left 12 ar 3
Hotel Grand Very ... & cold.
Cathedral build out of old Doric Temple
Columns in outer wall. Wall of alla cut into
arches between nave & aisles. ... Greek
... for bapt. font.
Drove to theater at Sunset.
Next day to Amphi. & quarry. Ear of
Dionysus ... & Fortezza - Marvellous
so massive 3 fossae. Archimedes (who
invented screw & sun glass was killed
in this accidentally

went to dinner at a comical restaurant very cheap & quite good.
Sailed at 10
Feb 25
for Tripoli Good boat Firenze. Elderkins and class.
Reached Trip 7.AM Arabs for porters camels carrying
bricks in Streets Very picturesque Arabs Jews Blacks
all in unusual costumes. Skyline broken with Minarets
Palms on shore Grand Hotel very good. Comical landing -
2nd cabin delay for EH.
FG & I went to Hotel & others didn't know it.
Beautiful hotel. Went to Museo in morning. In aft
drove to Sahatha with Elderkins. Most unusual
scenery. Arab grave yard 12 lots of stone with round
posts ... fez - camels mules goats sheep.
Arab towns beautiful children. Arabs tall stately
silent. Sahata interesting esp. votive chapel
with busts of Jove & ... Camels & Arabs doing
excavating. Saw Amphitheater. fixing things up
for visit of King

Drove through Arab quarter & to war monument Saw weaving of silk

Sun Feb 26. In morning walked thru s...s saw silver workers - Aft.
ten at the Bartoccinis (director of scavi) Lovely baby 2 1/2 Franko.
Wife Irrestian teaches in Trip

Mon Feb 27 Lepcis Magna. Terribly cold ride out. Passed thru ...
& saw mosque with 48 columns from Lepcis - all different. Scavi at

L.M most impressive ... with cessi & many marble pools. Foro Basilica
wonderful statues Especially well preserved because of being buried
in sand Arch of Septimus with beautiful sculptures (not yet put in place)
Port also interesting did not go to edge of sea.
Tues Feb 27[sic] - Boat late had another day in Tripoli. In morning
walked thru S...s In aft to market.

Wed Feb 29 - Morning went to Fair new work of school children in applied art. Lovely things. esp. childs room
decorated with stenciled paper-files cushions painted furniture & toys
Also more advanced work in embroidery & dress making. Art exhibit lovely pictures of desert. Much silver work &
leather. Rome's exhibit beautiful. Sailed at 1. Proprieter of Hotel gave us 2 boxes of Chocolates. Horrid old tub of a boat
(Porto di Savona) rolled frightfully. Grace & F.G. done up.

Thurs Mar 1 Sighted land about 10 good day but boat still rolling.

Thurs Mar 1 - arrived Syracuse 3 PM had lunch at Restaurant Oriental went to Latemia Cappuccine where 11000 Gks
worked in Quarry & died. Beautiful gardens planted there now. Drove in to theater again for sunset.

Fri Mar 2 - 11:45 - 8 train to Palermo - beautiful scenery Almonds in full bloom - mountains & flowers

Sat Mar 3 - In morning St. Giovanni degli Ermeti Beautiful garden - grapefruit tree
lovely cloisters 5 red domes.
Aft to Cathedral to see tomb of Roger & Fred & Constant In crypt tomb of Admiral Saw treasure taken from tomb.
Crowns scepters - embroideries

of seed pearls & all sorts of jewels from Constantias dress. Marvellous vestments embroidered in gold & silver & coral
beads & colored flowers.

Sunday Mar 4 - Stayed in in AM Wrote. Aft. to St M. Mosaic of Admiral kneeling before feet of Vergin. Lovely old
pavement in Church. Also to S. Caterina to see a bas relief of Jona & Whale. Now a convent. Nuns behind 2 gratings
talking to family & friends. The relief was very queer - High relief colored rigging of ship made of real cords. Tea at
Caflishs - saw "Mio figlio"

Mon Mar 5 - All day trip to Segesta. Marvellous day got car from Hotel for 360 L. Very Good. Went by sea and came
home shorter way by mts. Flowers superb. Temple more impressive than ever. Never finished:. Columns unfluted.
theater mag. site auto can drive right to temple now - Making good path to theater.

Tues. Mar 6. Sailed at noon for Tunis SS Argentina Very Good Had wonderful view of N. shore of Sicily all aft. Landed
at Trapani at 5. Stayed till 7.30 Went ashore & walked around Saw Marquise Pantemoni but he didn't see us.

Morning in Santos.
Wed Mar 7
Bardo Museo in P.M. Treasure from ship from Athens probably sent by Sulla ...
Bronze Museum. many small bronzes some large marble capitols of Columns Lovely little figures probably handles of
Also saw many mosaics Famous one of Vergil from ... Ships. Scenes from home lif, etc
Beys apt interesting Gobelin Tap. portrait of Louis Phillippe

Thur Mar 8 - to D... @ 100 M beautiful ride - Marvellous flowers, mts in distance Ruins scattered over hillside
Beautiful theater. Splendid arch. Temple & floors with mosaics Arab boys pests! went with Elderkins

... 16 f = 64 c

Fri. Mar 9 ... in morning bright beautiful blue Kimona & black & silver scarf at ...
Leffers 40. Leather purses 8 f 2 for 2@

Aft ... - Temple of ... (Juno of Phoen) many grave stones (small "stick" figure)
Phallic signs (another small drawing). burial jars Thunderstorm. Museum in monastery lovely gold jewelry. Little
colored cupid terra cotta like tanagra figures Phoen razors (small drawing). beautiful heads of Aug ... & Marcellus.
beautiful site overlooking bay.

Sat Mar 10 - Left at 6.59 for ... .... arrived at 2. train late. Took auto immediately for Khemissa. Old Roman city in Mts
(on trade route to Carthage) ... Italia. Played bridge read ... novel

wonderful mt scenery. Great arch across road. Theater on hill side. paid 140 for trip. Too much should have been 105

Sun Mar 11. left at 8 for Medamo & Tebessa. Grey day. Got stung on Auto. Hotel prop charged 700 for trip Elderkins
got car for 375
Medamo site of Cepuleius birth. Great city many bas reliefs of Mercury. Theater built up on level ground against
Bizantine fortress. Baths just being excavated saw concrete vats couldn't decide use of - stone mangers for cattle. Small
apse with semicircular seats - City church. Left in 1 1/2 hrs for Tebessa ate lunch en route. Chauffeur served it. in midst
of desert 4 little Arab boys appeared Skylark flew up singing right in front of us. Visited Nomad encampment. Took
pictures of women & children

very dark day. Reached Tebessa about 2. funny little town Victoria Hotel with rooms across roofs Saw big Basilica &
columns abbutting on Pillars
Temple (like Marson ...) Beautiful Arch Cracalla Town wall Byzantine Sat in square for tea @ 100 natives gathered
about to watch us. Very cold left next morning at 715 for S...
A... again. made it in 3 hrs. Left at 1.2.15 for Bone
March 11 arriving at 5---- nice Hotel. beautiful situation of town. on bay walked along boulevard. Arab bootblacks
perfect pests City where Louis died on his Crusade

Drove in 2 horse carriage
25 f
March 12. Morning to Hippo to visit Cathedral of St Louis. Nothing interesting about it but site overlooking town. Then
to Roman cisterns still in use Marvellous Museum & Roman house beautiful mosaics. One of hunt showing nets torches
& shields used to attract wild beasts. pens of tame animals used as bate[sic] & huntsmen. 3 statues of Hercules Aescup
& [empty space]. funny animal carved in wall large ... Old Phoenician wall old Quai & steps down to sea. Sea now 1/2
m away. Left at 1.26 for Constantine arriving at 8.40 dinner in train

Mar. 14. Const. F.G. terrible cold stayed in Bed. Spent much time finding bank for EH. finally walked to gorge went
down in elevator to bridge walked across took carriage back to Hotel thru Aram quarter. saw many storks in nests.
French colonial troops going out for manoevers. Town has wonderful situation with deep gorge in aft drove again along
Corniche drive alove gorge most picturesque to warm bath (old Roman once) Grace & I had lunch at caffe beer &

auto to Djemila
400 fr.
Mar 15 - left at 8 wonderful scenery bare mts green fields rivers snow capped mts near ... visible reached Djemila at 12
had lunch at Transatlantique Hotel 1 story with Patio with antique columns painted 2 lovely cats yellow - 1 Persian old
town below hotel. one side Bysantine[sic] city - baptistry with mosaice.
Other side Roman many houses with atrium. Temple with portiers standing arch of Caracalla. Basilica Julia (mother of

C) ... foro - several latrines, Museum covered with mosaic

pavements on outer walls. Inside ones from house of Asinius Nica name over picture of Ass. One showing triumph of
Venus Cupid holding looking glass. Another Europa & Bull - Cupid has bulls tail turned over his shoulders. very large
flat torso of Juppiter[sic]
in Capitol. Cat followed us every where got tired & howled On way home ran out of Gas! Wonderful sunset - left at

3.15 & arrived at 7.15

Fri Mar 16 - F.G. Sick. Spent morning around town in aft EH & I walked across ... & through old town left at 8.20 for

Tangiers I sat up 2nd class & others took sleeper

8 in compt. Grace thought she lost her bag with pass port etc Peppermint ... & wife. Nice lady - French man who ...!
Old forest guard

Slept little but had a good time!

Sat Mar 17
Reached Algiers at 8.30 lovely situation on sea. Nice Hotel FG worse tried to find MD were insulted.
In aft slept then Grace & I went thru Arab Quarters no ... - not good stores except one Jewelry near Cathedral

Woman dragged by Arab with stick

Mar 18 - Sunday went on Cooks tour to Bli... & Cl... Gorge to see the Monkeys. Beautiful scenery rich farm land - trees
just leaving out - shady roads Mts very high near gorge many little waterfalls Had lunch Roussian Hotel de Gorges de
Monkeys had no tails very tame ate peanuts. on terrass one had baby which she carried on her back.
Came home by Kolea - along "Turquoise Coast" In evening went to mosque where women are allowed to come once a
year - Men washed faces hands & feet before walking on matting ... instruments made from turtle

Tues Mar 19 - Nothing much Museum in morning to see Originals of Casts at Ch...

Monday Mar 19 - Went to Ch... to see Museum on way stopped at Tombe della cretienne a strance behive shaped mass
of square blocks with remains of Roman columns all around went inside around a long corridor which let finally into
very center of Tomb. Museum had some lovely things nice old custode like John Burroughs took picture - one of ...
another of statue. ... heads of Juba II Museo founded by him. Husband of daughter of Cleopatra & Caesar went to
Tepaza for lunch Sun to ruins. Nice Arab boys Paid 470 for car

Tues, Mar 20 - Left at 8.13 for Constantine. I went 2nd class & sat up with Arab-French couple, old man with palsy nice
lady & young son of a friend - & later widow with 2 children. Quite comfortable reached Cons. at 8.30. Walked the
Gorge had lunch took 1.13 for Batna arriving 5.33

Wed Mar 21 - Comfortable nice French woman & Arab officer with many medals - Levant Syria - 5 from World War.
showed us his scars. Tried Hotel de France - N. G went to Orient & were very comfortable. Next morning hired car to
take us to Timgad & Lambessa 120 f.
Little pet Jackal at hotel. Size of kitten - tail like fox - ears like Donkey.

Museo had finest mosaics I ever saw - like paintings.

Thurs Mar22 - Lambese headquarters of III Aug legion. Pretorium a huge square building towering above everything
else. Arab boy digging Truffles On way to ... stopped to see other arch. Arabs washing in stream by tramping on clothes

-dancing a regular jig.
Reached Timgad a little after 11. Arab fair opposite Hotel. Many Berbers animals tents bought pins & bracelets of
women. After lunch went to Ruins magnificent situation. 3,300 ft ... white capped mts all about. no frescoes but many
columns standing wonderful pavements on streets. Capitol with 2 huge columns standing. Had tea by open fire.

Friday Mar 23. Beautiful bright day with cold wind spent morning in ruins taking pictures. Hard rainstorm in afternoon
sat by fire & wrote this.

Sat Mar 24 left at 9 for Biskra Good day reached El ... at 11.30 had lunch at Gorge Hotel then walked thru the red
village Dirty depressing children sore eyed blind filthy boys playing checkers in road with green spots made by
squeezing weeds Men were pebbles & Date pits Went thru Arab house Had to be carried across river to reach Auto.

F.G. waded. Marvellous trip to Biskra - first sight of desert like Sea

beautiful colors on Mts. Lavender flowers. Went that night to see Oulid Nail dancing girls - dance with stomach guide at
Hotel took us - One little one 12 or 10 yrs old.

Sun Mar 25 - In morning walked around & looked at Shops. Saw Son of Shiek that girl in Sleeper told Grace about. He
walked around old town with us. In aft went for Camel ride thru old Bisk - another Mud village My camels name Zora loved
it. the evening went to an Arab Caffe to see the Oulid Nail dancing girls do the Stomach dance very interesting
they wore girdles with heavy buckles which bobbed up or down. Many women in native costume walked

through flaring ruffled skirts with ... & ribbons. One little girl 10 - ... negro dance (Old bag - a bones)

Sunday March 26. Walked around town in morning Drank Helen's health in Vermouth. Stopped opp. Transatlantique to
see Graces Son of Shiek ... Ben Mbaruk He took us for walk around town thru market etc. In aft went for ride on
Camels thru Old Biskra - mine was white named Zora. Great fun. In evening went to see Dervish dance. Terrible but
interesting put skewers thru face put burning branch inside bernous let Marabou strike him with stick - Probably doped.
Then to another Oulid Nail Cafee not so interesting as other so many American & Eng there Little girl sat by me &


Mon mar 26 - In morning made arrangements to do on camping trip with guide at Sahara (Rat face) Left at 2.30. Flute
players & R f in carriage 4 camels & drivers for us. At edge of Oasis Rat face halted us & tents were put up. Sair just to
show us what they looked like. Terrible wind - Sand dunes 4 Parties - 3 tents 13 Arabs. Dinner Vermicelli soup.
Omelette - Artichoke roots - fresh green pease - tender chicken fried potatoes - Salad - Stewed pears. Oranges dates Benedictine
Anisette. Evening at Restaurant danced with R. F. "ce soir" ed me. Wind went down walked to camp in
moon-star light.

Tues Mar 27. Woke to see beautiful sun rise. Started back soon after breakfast. lovely day. - Afternoon Garden
beautiful Sunset. in evening private performance of Oulid Nail girls - big sell paid 25 f apiece. Sat in bed with man - Old
woman with candle - Mouse "bed of shame" 1 girl with bad eyes - other with shrunken leg - well shaved beautiful ...
light brown skin.

Wed Mar 28 - Train trip to Const. left at 3 ---- arrived 10.30

Thurs Mar 29 Train from 8.30 AM to 11.45 PM to Tunis Lots of Mail!!

Fri Mar 30 Souked bought lovely leather things

Sat. Mar 31 In aft drove to Utica where Cato younger committed Suicide Terrible sell - few ruins. good mosaics esp one
large one of giant head & sea scenes - Saw Native women (photo) one washing by old Roman port very hot.

Sun Apr 1. Monkey jokes for EH & FG. Beautiful drive to S... Aqueduct - Red poppies blue flax little blue morning
glories Camel plowing. On to El Djem ate lunch on Table sitting on pieces of old Columns. Took pictures of native
children carrying babies = terrible scrabble back to S... by Monastic passed Lepcis Minor! nothing to show it. T place
where treasure in Barde recovered from ship from Athens was found.

night at S....

Mon Apr 2 - to K... saw Grand Mosque - hundreds of R. columns. beautiful view from minaret White city without any
trees around it - Pepper trees in streets - Bought rugs in hotel - got soaked paid too much! went to Mosque of ... outside
of town beautiful tile-work & stone carving - windows with old glass behind stone tracing. Rained before we reached

Tues Ap 3- Souked in AM to Souk el Leffa very good bought Kimono & Scarf there

Wed In Aft took train to Lidi Bon Said - White hill city - tried to see Arab house of Baron d'Erlanger but only got in

garden. Long rows of Cypresses with pool between - White house with blue timming on height over Sea walked on to
Phare. had Lemonade at quaint Arab Cafe Inside wide elevated couches covered with matting Arab asleep on one.

Thurs Apr 5 morning Souked - sailed at 4 for Palermo. "Guy guy" went in Taxi with us to boat. Lovely boat "City of

Fri Apr 6 Trapain 7-9. Reached Palermo at 2 - waited till 3 to get Passport stamped so we could disembark Then Hell of
a time over K... rugs!!! left them at customs next day got A... to ship them to Rob!

Sat Apr 7 Morning in ... took 12.40 to ... arrived at 5 something. Lovely spot good Hotel with wide view of

sea & temples.

Sun Apr 8 - (Easter Jokes) Morning to Cathedral to hear Easter music - Kittens in garbage - Beautiful Roman
Sarcophagus in Sacristy. Sea in Garden Hotel des Temples walked to temples in afternoon Magnificent. 1st Concordia
then along ridge to Juno . & walked home along old Roman road deep ruts.

Mon Apr 9 - Walked to Rock of Athens - met Proprieter & 2 daughters & wife. Then Prof Noach archaeologist from
Berlin sketching there. In aft walked to other temples - Castor & Pollux Hercules & Jove. Met Prof Noach again
Monday Easter festa all the Grigenti people out picknicking. Many oranges.

Tues Apr 10 Grace & I went to the sea in a "One Hoss Shay". Had lovely day on a little deserted

Sandy beach - Went wading got legs burned. Walked home met EH & FG in garden of Temples for Tea.

Wed Apr 11. Terrible time leaving Grigenti because of stamping of our Primavera Tessera. Thought we would
loose[sic] train.
Reached Palemo 11.45. In afternoon went out to Caflishes to tea - saw "Mio figlio" made date for evening bought new
suitcase 115 l He brought his cousin Vincenzo & a young friend we took a walk along the Marino.

Thurs Apr 12 - morning. Palatine Chapel - mosaics marvellous beautiful floor of ... ...
Carved candlestick - Arab ceiling Moorish window. Then to Museum again

Fri Apr 13 - in morning sent suitcase to Naples full of woolen clothes In aft drove to Mt Pellegrino visited shrine of
Santa Rosalia walked to statue saw Etna beautifully. Thursday In evening Opera Fascista speech over exploding of
Bomb at opening of fair in Milan when King was there. & a ... beautifully done Adelaida Saraceni Violette ni
Francesche father.

Friday evening went out with the 3 boys to Massimo Cafe for beer.

Sat Apr 14 left 8 40 for Messina Figlio came to train to see us off
Reached Messina 1.30 bad time getting to boat with Porters etc. splendid boat "Milano" nice room two in little
alleyway. People at table charming.

Eng couple & Swiss International lawyer represents Greek & Bulgaria.

Sun Apr 15 - calm sea steady boat read all morning.
Mr & Mrs Douglass lived in Borneo 22 yrs - absolute monarchy "Rajah Brook" bought a little land gradually civilizing
natives who adore him 3rd generation now ruling. Head hunters. Mrs D's experience as bride. Village who bolted to
Dutch. ... & his suggestive remarks-

Mon - Apr 16. Arose at 4.45 to watch boat go through C... Canal. Got to Piraeus at about 10. Ida & Lib came on board
took us for a lovely picnic beyond Phaleron to -pine woods by Aegean. Had tea at their lovely

house came home dressed went back to dinner. Bert & Carl both there.

Tues. Had tea at Mrs DeJongs in aft noon. Saw her husbands pictures & caricatures terribly clever. Dinner at Pantheon

with Ida Burt Lib Mrs DeJong

Wed. Sunium beautiful day. Temple right on edge of Sea.

Thurs. Museum in morning in aft tea at Ida's with AM school.


Sat went to Temple of Zeus Olympia then to theater of Dionysius. Precinct of Aesculapino - Areopagus. & walked to

Monument of Polypappus for Sunset - not very brilliant

Sunday April 22 - Concert in morning to hear Borowsky (who came on boat with us) play piano with Symphony Orchs.
In aft to Stadium to see athletic games. To Ida Lib to tea. Earthquake at 10.15 P.M. (Destroyed Corinth)

Mon Apr 23 Rhamnus Y Marathon went in swimming ate lunch at Rhamnus. Beautiful site remains of temples of
Nemesis & Thesis. Wild hill overlooking sea. Gateway & old wall.

Tues apr 24 Visited Dypilm Gate & Sacred way with tombs & stile Then Theseum (now called Hephaistion) Up shore
lane. Tea at Ambassadors Saw Mr Rowland. Museum in morning ... all new things - beautiful bronze boy found at

by fishermen

Marathon. Nearly perfect except whatever he held in one hand and part of a foot. Bronze strip engraved found by Carl.
Perhaps Clytemnestra & Cassandra. To dinner at Phaleum with Dr. Graef & Miss Phillips. Little restaurant right on
shore Then to see their little house with terrass overlooking sea & shaded by 2 pines Most interesting evening Customs
in Russia & Roumania - Moravian Trombones & Easter service with Candles to Cemetary.

Wed Apr 24. Visited Near East AM women's Hospital at Piraeus. Dr Parmelee showed us about tremendously
interesting ... ... Clinic - General Clinic

Maternity ward. "John Power" beautiful boy 21 mo old deserted by mother. Great lack of water! No place for tubercular
patients or Chronic cases - People have to buy all water 1 d a can (5 gal) Then to see Miss Stewart-Richardson's
weaving. Beautiful bags.

Then on to Daphni where Lib Ida & Mrs DeJong joined us. Visited 11th cent Bizantine church first then on for picnic
Then to Eleusis -
Thurs Apr 25

Fri Apr 26. All day trip to Tatoi & stopped ti see /tinb if Jubg Geo & Alex. Palaces now Orphan asylum wild red
tulips beautiful. View of Delf & Enboia. On way home stopped at Kephissia for tea lovely place with view ate on terrass

Sat gave dinner to friends at Grand Briton...

Sun stayed home as was trifle under weather Went to concert in morning heart Operette of Mozart sung by 5 people.
Not much good.

Mon Apr 30 Left for Crete on 6 PM Boat Adriaticus. Very poor boat Lib soaked with wave EH & FG had [small
drawing could be 'bug']. Sir Percy Lorraine & Lady L., Miss Stewart Richardson ... ... Mr. Owen ... S.B. &

another Brit were on board but didn't bother us, "Piet" deJong came out to meet us. Nice Hotel Minos. Sailed along
coast of Crete so didn't arrive till 9 PM Tuesday.

Wed morning May 2 went to Museum - Very interesting Minoan Jewelry Frescoes from Palace at Knossos cats in
flowers. K... Boys gathering crocuses, etc. Invited to Sir Arthur Evans for lunch. 78 yrs young Has paid for the dig
himself. Luncheon in Pine grove (planted by himself) Brits there 15 at table. Duncan McKensie at one end ... at other.
After lunch

Place to bathe near entrance

we were shown over Palace by Sir Arthur. Frightfully interesting wooden columns horns [small drawing] on top.
wooden beams. big jars - ...paintings reproduced on walls. Several stories high. Wine & Olive presses. Puppies.
Had tea in pine grove.

Thurs May 3. Drove to Phaestus & Hagia Quida. Wild beautiful mt. scenery. Palace at Phaestus not restored like Sir
Arthurs. At Hagia a "summer palace". School children picking flowers for May day (wreaths on all the houses in ... etc)
Hundred there sang for us & we were treated to Coffee Hooch. rode

over stream on Mule coming back tire rim broke. Got home 9 PM

Fri May 5 to bay of Malia to see another (French) dig stopped on way & saw a place where they found many little
painted [small drawing] for ceremony & double ....
Had beautiful swim on way back. Piet came to dinner. Rest across from "High Life" large back room.

May 6
Sat left for A... 12 nice boat Elena M.

Sun May 7 arrived at 12. went to Tea at Ida & Lib then to ... & Bert showed us about. Learned lots saw old walls.

old road. Base of statue of wooden horse - Foundations of old Parth that Xerzes destroyed (up about 2 drums) many
drums used for her others burned used in ... of .... Base of stat. of Athena in Parth. hole for wooden support.
Little olive tree in front of Erect. planted by Kings child.

Mon May 1 - Crete at 5 - nice boat Brit Min & Party on board.

Tues May 2 - went along coast of Crete - mts & villages white crowned then Ida. Reached Candia about 9 P.M. Piet
de Jong came out on little boat to meet us. Hotel very near boat landing

Wed May 3 Museum in morning saw Minoan frescoes from Palace at ... Particularly boy picking crocuses - cats in
foliage - King Minos! Seal pendants that were developed into rings - gold beads & jewelry. Then for lunch to Villa
Ariadne for lunch with Sir Arthur Evans - ate in pine grove sat between P. de Jong & Mr Owens (SO) after lunch Sir
Arthur showed us over the "Palace" 13 stories in places wooden pillars restored [small drawing] double horn ornament
(perhaps against Earthquakes to ward off evil eye) restored frescoes. Throne room with animals on each side. Place
where they washed for purification before entering - great store rooms etc. (Puppies) Tea also in grove.

In evening Circus

Thurs May 4 - Phaestus. Palace very like ... not restored. ... to see Code of Laws. Bought antique beads on way from
Hagia...? ... of school children songs - coffee - Raki? dances. beautiful position overlooking sea. Broke down 3 times on
way back. Greek car also broke down. man gave us flowers. Late getting home Brits in Evening dress in Hotel Hall

Fri May 4 - went to Malia stopped at to see remains where double battle ... & little 3 legged tables were found Had
sea swim on way back Brit came to dinner with us.

Sat May 5. Sailed at noon good passage - nice boat "Cabins de Luxe" Girl from China with Victrola

Sun May 6 - reached Piraeus about noon.

Mon May 7 Birthday party at Ida & Lib in evening. Beautiful table sweet pease - scattered over cloth - Lib gave me
Baedeker C... Ida - table cloth. Effie blue rubber sponge bath mit. Delicious dinner. Strawberry ice cream - chicken
mousse (strained.)

Tue May 8 left for Delphi at 10.30. Reached ... at 2.30. 1st class Mr & Mrs Rufus Mather - great fun on train gold cord
book mark. Told us about work of Lighthouses "-Just come from Egypt. Beautiful ride up to Delphi - saw Camels. Had
all sorts of Jokes at birthday party Grace - Cretan beads FG Horse beads many jokes
walked to temple before dinner. to Spring of Castalia

Wed May 9. Walked to museum & upper precinct in morning lower one in aft.

Thurs May 10 - Took car to A... & walked back. Took pictures of women with their ... Grace bought one. All bought big
peasant wool bags. Lost ... on way home.

Mon May 14 Corinth left at 6.50 reached new C at 10 saw devastation of earthquake terrible Then on to New Corinth
saw spring of P... - Temple spring with ancient bronze lion heads under Temple secret door in architecture. Spring of
Gl... (into which Medias rival plunged herself when presented with poison robe. saw new excavations of Theater. Left at

3.30 for ... spent night there wonderful sunset on way

Mon May 14 Corinth left at 6.50 reached new C at 10 saw devastation of earthquake terrible Then on to New Corinth
saw spring of P... - Temple spring with ancient bronze lion heads under Temple secret door in architecture. Spring of
Gl... (into which Medias rival plunged herself when presented with poison robe. saw new excavations of Theater. Left at

3.30 for ... spent night there wonderful sunset on way


1 bag 12
1 " 9
2 purses 16
1 " 2
1 scarf 1.65
1 Kim 2.35

Recipes -

1. Celery stalks in casserole with cheese & butter & breadcrumbs on top.
2 Onions cooked with vineagar & sugar.
3. Puree of carrots.
" " pease instead of mashed potatoes.
Ring molds of spinach - rice - or pease with gravy or tomato sauce inside - egg soufflee in ring of cauliflour mould.
Pork liver bacon & toast on spit.
Fried fish & mushrooms.
Meat loaf with hard boiled egg in center
sauce for meat - oil vinegar chopped chives & pickles

& capers.
Orange - ice frozen in skins cut top off & serve with spray of leaves. stuff with whipped cream & sugar.&
Bread pudding with slices of orange & raisins & much custard.
Egg nog - beat yolks & whites separate very stiff - into yolks beat whiskey add whites & then whipped cream.
Breaded veal cutlet

Slice of ham on top then melted cheese & a circle of tomato sauce.
Rice in mold in center mushrooms chopped giblets - pease egg all mixed with tomato sauce
filet of pork in casserole covered with cabbage then slices of bacon. ...

Cataract Hotel over Cataract go for tea - expensive
2 nights at Assuan
See Island Elephantine 1st afternoon
Next day go to Philae in AM by steam R.R.
Leave at 8 get back at 2

return by sail boat to Assuan 7 miles.
Afternoon visit tombs of nobles 12th dinasty across rive. Very important
Assuan to Kom Ombo
Kom Ombo Hotel run by irrigation co.3
Stay 1 night
visit temple of Kom Ombo
Hotel furnishes tram
Return on tram

Next day go to Edfu to see temple. Hellenistic.
Has roof have to take boat across Nile Dont take Dragoman.
2 1/2 hrs there. Go on to Luxor that night.
Spend night at Hotel S... Luxor to Keneh by train next day.
Dendera Most difficult trip. Take sleeper on to Cairo that
night 1st class get Donkeys at Keret to go all way to Dendera
they go to ferryboat with you & return.
Engage donkeys at Luxor through Hotel.

Travel 2nd class.


1. Gresham House @$4 per day Very Good mention Vassar Madam Souleman
Hotel National 5-6
Shaira Souleman Basha
Cecil House @4
Shaira Elbustan 8

all 3 near Museum

Grosvenor House (did not look attracive) Small Hotel.

At Alexandria 1 night

Hotel Windsor $4 1/2
(1 night)
See Museum & Catacombs
1 wk in Cairo.
Go to Memphis.Ride back on donkey from Sakkara to ... over desert
12 days to go up rivel.

1. 1st night in Assuit see tomb.
Stay at United Pres. Mission Hospital (take Paying Guests)= Hosp of Am. Mission.
Grand Hotel near station (no ...) not in Baedeker
2. Train to Abydos. Dont miss
4 hrs to Balaina
Donkeys to Abydos 1 hr
2hrs there
Back to Belaina Then train to Luxor arrive @ 10 oclock
3 Luxor Hotel Savoy on Nile (German) $4 or 5 a day
write ahead telling college connections.

5 nights at Luxor only 2 days across the River better have 3.

From Luxor to Assuan St James Hotel. Possible but not too good ($3.00

Prices of tickets in Sicily
Round trip to Trapani with
tessera (6 l) + 71.40.

Buy tickets over long distances & return whenever one can. Buy of Am Ex Co
L R T spent 2 wks in Cairo
See Arab Uni of Cairo.
get Baedeker of Egypt

See Edfu | better preserved
& Dendra | more attractive

Roumain Line not so good
Royal Rhedivial Line better
2nd class
Alex to Persieus Wed

Homeric Room 154 F $45 per
London - Mrs Wms Private Hotel 6/ room & breakfast
Excellent quiet simple agreeable.
Oxford Mitre Hotel

Bruges Hotel du Londres
In Grand Place Restaurant of Hotel du

Venice. Adria Rua Schiaroni

44 l Pensione
not good food no place to sit comfortably in eve
But few mosquitoes. Quiet beautiful view from my window.

Cortina - Regina Hotel
40 l pensione - good clean good location. noise of motors bad but quiet at night fair food good service. delightful

Venice - Regina Hotel
45 l pensione (for 2 meals)
Rooms on back noisy quiet on court & side facing dining room. Adjoining suites

43, 44 have running water & are not so quiet
on court quietest 40 etc
Verona Hotel Milan very noisy - mosquitos - no nets very expensive 120 l for 1 day 3 meals.
Milan - Hotel du Nord Good Rooms 54, 55 quiet singles on top floor Room 18 l dinner 24 break 6

Stresa - Hotel Pension Flora lovely garden on lake Pens 45
Bellagio Hotel Florence on Lac with garden behind & "Villa" at back of garden. Pensione 42.52 per. G & I large double
room no 6. quiet & airy

Florence Jennings Riccioli - Rooms 52. 53. 58 lovely singles on top floor. Pensione 45 l ...including tips

bill=368 a week
Rome. Pensione Girardet 45 + 3 for heat
Naples - Sant Lucia 65 l a day
Sorrento. Cocumella Rate 50 l pensione single no 57 on Terace overlooking garden & bay beautiful.
Palermo. Hotel de France 60 l pensione - lovely situation good food Germans.
Trapani - Grande Hotel Room on sea 18 l. Whole bill 75 per day including eats - tea wine +.... to station in hack
Taormina - Metropole very good 70 l
Syracuse Grand very poor 65
Tripoli Grand Excellent 70.
Tunis. Hotel de Paris 60 fr. very nice
Louk Arras Hotel d'Orient bed 15 dinner 12
Tebessa Victoria comical Bed 15 break 5 din 12

Bone - Tourist. Room 15 b 7
Constantine. Grand Rooms (double with bath 80.) break 7 lunch 25 dinner 30 very good.
Constantine Grand dear 80 francs for double room with bath 35 for singles Break 8 - lunch & din 35
Algiers - Oasis - Rooms 35 Break 8 Din & lunch 30
Batna - Hotel du Orient Room 20 - Diner[sic] 18 - Break-6
Timgad - Hotel Timgad Pensione 75
Biskra - Hotel du Sahara very nice Pensione 70

Greece Athens April 16 -
... - White House Room 150 drach a day after we came back from Crete 110 (77 d to $1)
Delphi - Pythian Apollo
Crete -
Constantinople - Hotel de Londre - Lire about 52 cts. 44 l a day
Budapest - Hotel Metropole
Vienna Hotel Metropole R 8 Shilling a day 8x@14 cts)
Prague Blue Star -
Salzberg Hotel Pitter R 9 Shillings
Innsbruck Hotel ...

R 9 Shillings
... - Hotel Tyrolhoff Pensione 18 S
Madonna di Campiglio Hotel delle Alpi Pensione 65 Lire (19 to $)

XX Excellent
Milan - Hotel du Nord Room 25 Dinner 25 Break 6
Florence Jennings Riccioli 45 Lire (running water now Aug 1928 (without tips)

Helen Ines Haight
Am. Ex Co.

Russia dressmaker
Mme X. Zoline
326 St. Jacques

Paris V

414 rue St Honore
Grand Maison de Blanc
... etc

Dine late ...
Saroyard's Montmatre[sic]
Rabottels 6 Fairbourg St Honore.

Mary Allen
1390 Long Meadow St
Springfield Mass